Show Us Your Iray Renders
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Not sure about 1, but 2- There is a "quality" setting in the Iray Render settings. The default is "1", and you can increase that.
Not sure about 1, but 2- There is a "quality" setting in the Iray Render settings. The default is "1", and you can increase that.
Thank you :) , I'll have to go and find that.
One more question, is there a "shader" for hair to make it look better, like the "Iray optimized G2F/M MAT" that's in materials?
I thought I saw something, but I'm looking again, and I can't find anything (which, for me is typical). :/ Thanks.
Decided to give dark skin a go. Used Ignus' Dark Elf for Genesis on G2F and went changing settings everywhere. Used the G2F iRay shader, ignoring materials, and transferred the skin maps to the top-coat color. Then changed the eyes to an emitter and fixed those maps as well. Lost the details on the eyes though. Morph is Niebla by Emma and Jordi.
/edit
Added one that's a bit brighter.
Here's MDD Ashen on V4 using SAV's scalp. I didn't really do much, just converted the texture to the iRay base, but wasn't really sure what to do from there (this was last night prior to reading some posts I didn't see until today).
Ok, did a fairly simple image to compare UberAreaLights and 3Delight to Emitters in Iray.
The left side uses a large Uber Area Plane above, to provide some soft illumination, the candle flame is an Uber Area surface emitting yellow light, then I added UberEnvironment 2 to provide a little more softening.
Glass shader, 1.8 refractive index. I also added some SSS to the canvas to allow a little light from below.
The right side uses the same plane as an emitter for some soft backdrop night illumination, and then a 2900 flame at 5 billion luminance (5 billion? Dudes)
Glass Iray shader, 1.8 refractive again. Used some translucence on the canvas to try to match as close as possible.
Needless to say, the difference is striking -- the Iray render allows the nature of light to diffuse and bounce off surfaces to provide very soft shadows. I didn't touch any of the basic shaders (table top, pole, metal of the lantern and chain), and it still looks a lot more natural.
Mind you, the left side took 5 minutes, the right side took 2 hours, but hey.
Hm, in my eyes, the right one looks more realistic. But besides that I like the left image more. It looks more dramatic and colorful, not as lifeless as the (realistic) right one. But thats just me... :-)
Total Rendering Time: 5 minutes 40.13 seconds
Couple of quick renders
Trying out some of the gold and diamond shaders with Caustics.
Quick render
This ran for about 14 minutes but after about 5 minutes almost nothing changed. The speckling in the darker areas was about the same from that point forward. Just an experiment in using the sun dial and some iRay materials. A bit disappointed that the speckles/fireflies are so prevalent though.
EDIT: Adding an equivalent 3Delight render using AoA lights and a distant "shadow" maker, for comparison.
OK, many hours later. And to answer some other questions after me.
Upper two omniUber Aria lights replaced with the Iray Uber Emissive shader (see my former post screen-cap). 6500k Emission Temperature, 150,000 cd/m^2 Luminance (yes that is a setting in the surface tab)
Lower Uber Area light (mimicking light bouncing off the floor) disabled completely, It is not needed with real unbiased render engines, along with UE2.
Dz Spot lights, replaced with Photometric Spot Lights (in the create menu), 6500k, 25,000 to 30,000 Lumens.
Figure and clothing shaders not touched at all. I did throw aluminum and chrome Iray omni shaders on that miror ball.
This test using the "Mitchell" pixel filter (What, no Sinc filter, sobbing Noooo).
My pathetic GeForce 8600GT just sits idling when told to Crunch Iray alongside the CPU. I may possibly be still missing something, lol.
Elvs don't know the 'Gentlman' dance lol.
Rendering Time: 2 hours 32.1 seconds
It's dust!
That's what I tell myself. ;)
(You can increase rendering quality, but I'd rather call it dust)
I think if you look right below the luminance setting you can select units. If you select watts, the values are a lot less extreme to get a good result and smaller changes make visible differences. Luminance will still say cd/m^2 because it's a fixed label but the values you use are a lot different. I prefer working in watts.
zarcondeegrissom, you also might consider testing some adjustments to the film IOS for example to a setting more in keeping with indoor lighting. The default is set at 100 which is the lowest setting on most cameras. You might consider going to 200 or 400 and lowering some of the light levels.
I think if you look right below the luminance setting you can select units. If you select watts, the values are a lot less extreme to get a good result and smaller changes make visible differences. Luminance will still say cd/m^2 because it's a fixed label but the values you use are a lot different. I prefer working in watts. I kind of like Lumens as things like Xenon arc lamps, and big-rock impact events are described in such ridiculous numbers, lol.
I'm not sure you want me to translate that many Xenon arc lamp lumens per meter, into watts on something forty feet long (12 meters), :ohh: lol.
I played with ISO400 B&W film once, over twenty years ago, I don't remember :red:
I got better results from leaving the film settings at default, and bringing the sun to earth, lol.
(EDIT)
"O" that was with film "Tone Mapping" off, oops. At least it was not pure black.
Takes arround 1 hour with GPU Only (GTX 970)
I finally installed 4.8 Beta.
Unfortunately, my PC is not ideal for using Iray in full scenes, but I made a couple of PBR textures to use on the DAZ Material Ball and came up with this...
I wonder why changing to an interior film would change the color scale. Unless you still had the lights over lit and changed the film for inside renders. And as to the sun..not going to get any in an enclosed box ( I seem to remember yours being that).
I wonder why changing to an interior film would change the color scale. Unless you still had the lights over lit and changed the film for inside renders. And as to the sun..not going to get any in an enclosed box ( I seem to remember yours being that). Sorry, to many test renders already. darn, I can't type fast enough... That was over twenty years ago. I only remember something about 1S shuter and ISO400 when taking pictures of the moon. many moons ago.
The sun bit was a joke, about how bright the lights are, If they were real lumens, lol.
Tone Mapping?
Only touch "Shutter Speed", F/Stop ?, and "Film ISO". Don't touch any of the other Dark Green dials?
Initially the only thing I would touch is IOS film speed and see what happens. And since your light isn't grossly under lit I would try 200 as a start.
I remember going to 1600 with 200% intensity Dz spots, and it was still pure black render.
This is almost as bad the other way in the view-field right now. Why am I wearing sunglasses indoors you ask, lol.
Still having fun with Iray!
This is just another quick test render done while figuring things out, no post work. Nothing special for lighting, lit with a very basic studio HDRI and one mesh light. Skin shaders modified to add more specular highlights and a bit more SSS.
Rendered at 1600x1600 in a little over 18 min. on a GTX 670M (laptop). It used a little under 1.5 Gb of VRAM.
This is the same light settings at ISO200, vs a quick 3delight Progressive Render (same lights).
I will note, that in 3Delight over a quarter of the top end of the color scale is pegged (washed out), lol.
zarcondeegrissom, we might as well face the fact that it is going to take a fair bit of tinkering till we are at the point where we can get what we expect as far as lighting (and surfaces and um yea the rest of it) goes. I think though that the learning curve will be a bit less steep and because things like light levels and temps are real world there is scads of information out there about how it works.
Again, thanks Khory.
So it looks like the default ISO is way to dark to start out with for allot of things, and even then, some lights are not converted over at similar light levels.
Here is 3delight , vs Iray at ISO200, ISO300, ISO400 and ISO600, same scene, lights, and all. Something to note as well. All the lights in the scene are aimed directly at that color cube, and the figures are off to the side. So aside from the floor bouncing light back up at the sides of the cube, there fairly equivalent in this scene (except for the default camera exposure apparently). Here I'm looking for the ISO number that gives the same amount of washout on the cube color scales, between 3delight and Iray.
(EDIT added iray at ISO400.)
Agreed Khory. This will take some time to work threw, and I hope the conversion is eventually amended to bring up the intensity of the Dz Spot lights and the Onmi Area lights. Running them at ISO258,110,000,000,000,... is a tad ridiculous, lol.
There are allot of products based on some of this stuff, and the more linear the conversion, the happier allot of costumers will be. As it is, my only three sets of sky-domes simply will not work, as the iray automated conversion for them is off-scale-low, lol. And I just purchased my first set of lights, and I'm really sure they will only function in 3Deligh and Luxus because of the current conversion values.
(EDIT2)
It looks like in the ballpark vicinity of ISO300 to ISO400 is fairly close to 3delight with the DazDefault shaders. The AOA and Omni shaders used on the figures and cloths are a tad off.
Playing a bit.