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Nice set...
The Monitor shader works nicely to have a set's sky dome illuminate the scene. I used it on the sky dome in Stonemason's The Streets of Old London, turning down the Luminance by a factor of 10 (from 900 to 90) and got great results with no other lights in the scene.
Ok, so I already bought this but reading the thread, am I understanding right that we can use these on existing lights like Age of Armour's sets to use them still?
Hey folks, I need some help. I thought I understood how to make Real Lights work but am missing something. Before I discuss my test, I should add that I have created mesh lights by making primitives, using the Iray Uber Shader, seeting the emission color to "other than blakc", then adjusting luminance.
For real lights, from reading this thread, I thought we just needed to select the surface of an object then double click one of the Real Lights shaders. For the attached test, I selected the bulb glass surface in the small lamp and double clicked the 60 watt bulb setting. I got the emission channel as expected. I did not change any settings. Environemnt was set to scene only for the test. When rendering, I got black screen (see attached test failure). To make sure I understood making a mesh light, I selected the pottery surface of the small pot to the right of the lamp, used the Iray Uber Sahder on the pottery surface, set emission color to white and luminance to 10000 lumens. Re-Rendered (second image) and the pot gives off light.
NOTE: More specifics. I can select the lamp shade, applied a Real Ligh Shader and viola, it becomes a light. So the Real Lights are clearly working. It's just that I expected to see some light below the lampshade as one would expect from a 60 watt bulb.
Your guidance and correction is appreciated.
I don't believe so (could be wrong).
Is your camera's headlamp on? It looks like your lampshade is casting a shadow on the wall behind it, via some light source in the foreground and that may be interfering with the lamp's light. Or maybe it's some wonkyness with the lamp mesh blocking the light. Full disclosure, I don't have this shader set yet, but I did manage to get the effect you're looking for in a render I did. My settings: default Iray emissive shader, Emission temp (K): 2900, Luminance (cm/m^2): 6500, Luminous units: W, Luminous Efficacy (Im/W) 120 Watts. I also had a emissive plane overhead with the same settings for fill light.
Note that this isn't quite all the vital adjustments; there's also Emission Temperature, which sets a colour tint to the light as if it were a hot, glowing object. The usual default setting for using the base Emissive shader is, I think 2900, which is equivalent to not-very-intense orangey firelight. The actual "zero" point is 6500, equivalent to white sunlight, and some fluorescent lights can have even higher temperatures. The Real Light shaders use all the proper settings for this depending on which light type you use.
I'm not sure what might be causing your "black light" problem, though. Unless... if the normals on the lightbulb mesh are the wrong way round, then the light would be shining inside the bulb instead of outwards into your scene.
...if that is indeed the case, set the light to "two sided" if it is not set by default.
Or use the Geometry editor to flip the normals...
Thanks for the ideas. But: the Headlamp isn't on; I do use the Emission temperature (didn't think mentioning every single step was critical to this discussion). The Real Lights shader does set the correct temperature. The shader was set to two sided by default.
Zombie's example is indeed what I had expected. I note however that I don't think the parameters work the way Zombie has specified. My understanding is that luminous efficacy is exactly what the units imply, i.e. how many Lumens per watt, so it's really 120 lumens per watt. This is at the high end for LEDs. When Luminance units are in watts, then a luminance of 6500 is 6500 watts (not so realistic).
As always, I am prepared to be corrected.
I'm pretty possitive I used that light with the real lights on the bulb in one of my promos (in theory this will show you the image http://www.daz3d.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/5/05-iray-fashion-leathers-daz3d.jpg) . 60 watt may just not be bright enough for that shade. Try 100 watts and be sure that your adjusting the tone mapping so that it shows up properly.
What did you mean with adjusting the tone mapping?
Could you please elaborate more on these, thanks.
Tone mapping is one of the render settings that you have access to in the render settings tab. If you look you will see things that have always been associated with traditional cameras. Shutter speed, f/stop and film ISO can all be used to adjust the level of light that the camera in your scene perceives. A render that is outside on a sunny day would likely want a film ISO setting of 100, if it were a slightly overcast day or a bright indoor space like a museum then 200 would be a better starting point. A fairly dark space would want 400 or higher. F/stop as far as these settings go will only alter the amount of light in the final render. I have noticed that a lower setting will help bring out the light further back in a dark scene but unlike camera it will not alter the depth of field. That is still a camera function in Iray. If you want a really good understanding of how the setting will effect your work you can do a search on camera settings and find scores of websites that will teach you about them. All of that is pretty much applicable.
Given that Iray models real light, I have trouble believing I need to adjust tone mapping to even see a 60 watt bulb in a room. I'm not expecting it to illuminate the room, I'm just expecting to see light. If I set my camera to the standard tone map settings and shot in a similarly darkened room I would not get a totaly dark frame.
I suspect that there is an issue with the "bulb glass" materials/surfaces in that model. I used one of the "Real Lights" monitor shaders on a painting in the model and it clearly lit the area. I assumed since it is a Stonemason model, given DzFires statements that things would be fine.
I did some fairly extensive testing last night using primitives with "Real Lights" shaders in a studio setup and they illuminate exactly light you would expect. The settings also corrrespond to the real deal.
I conclude that the issue is not the shaders, but may be the specific material in that item in the model. More tests to follow. However, my own testing in a "studio" setting was encouraging,
The default tonemapping parameters are set to not overexpose an 'outdoors' shot with the default HDR. Which means they are going to underexpose just about any interior shot. It's not an automatic adjustment.
I hope to use this soon this looks AMAZING!!!!!!!!! honestly and would encourage anyone to really learn to use iray more. ;-) cant wait to use it myself and see what i can do ;-).
I gotta say with the proper lighting iray can look amazing. the one downside ive seen so far in a lot of renders even some on the store is the lighting is just either not right or off a bit. (maybe overly bright?) anyways this set looks exactly what id want and i think the power with iray is just fine tuning things and a set of realsitic lights will de fhelp! :-)
i made this with stonemasons hanger and then added a spaceship pretty neat! was not too hard to set up too!
this really is the key for refitting many scenes for iray lighting. I must say some iray renders by either users or some thrid party renders arnt exactly as capturing as they could be..i likely think its due to either using over bright light or just not adjusting lighting realsitically but this addon really goes a long way to help you do that :-).
how do i get the moniter setting to not turn the moniter texture white? er retaining the texture but make it brighter?
Put the diffuse map into the the Emission Color and Luminance channels.
Put the monitor texture into the Emissions channel -- the channel you use to set the color of the emissive object.
ah gotcha. thanks!
(edit) nevermind figured it out thanks!
yay success! (i toned down the brightness a bit too)
Necroposting, I suppose, but having recently purchased this, it seriously is a hugely useful product. It's allowing me to do the kind of things I originally wanted to achieve in 3Delight rendering techniques, but so much easier!
How did you obtain that SSS atmosphere effect? It really does help to demonstrate the glow.