Show Us Your Iray Renders
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Hello!
This is my first try with Iray. Render time was 12 minutes in CPU mode with a Intel Core i7 @3.4 Ghz, which is pretty ok.
No postwork here!
And I have a question. The floor is a simple white plane with reflection set to 100%. But as you can see, there are hardly and reflectios visible. So, how do you make a surface reflective with Iray?
Glossy weight AND the glossy slider both need to be set high.
Thanks, Ram! And yes, I did mean literally hot, with all four cards running it gets to 80 degrees in here in about twenty minutes. I let that one run over an hour at 2000x33something and then did a blur for the fireflies.
I actually played with the ISO a bit on that one, and did some google searching for info about the three pillars of photography, and it sure does make a difference. No more postworking brightness and contrast on every render! Methinks I need to do another tutorial.
LOL. Never mind, same technique. LOL.
Interestingly, I found that a good technique to use even in 3Delight, because it helps capture details that otherwise get lost if you do 1:1 render size/final size.
Same, I routinely do that with promos! Business as usual. ;)
But yes, we'll need to change settings when doing that in Iray.
The Sponza Atrium model has oftern been used in benchmark test to see how light falls into the shadows in real time game engines. Figured I'd see how Iray handles it.
Just tried a render with one of Dimension Theorys's HDR domes.
Added the Iray shaders to car body, glass and tyres.
I redid the picture of the metal woman and snake I posted yesterday with a longer render time. Set the max to 8 hours, and let it go overnight, and it made it to 90% (previously 73% at 2 hrs). Not an enormous visual difference, but is less noisy. (Also tweaked DOF) I put it in the gallery here:
http://www.daz3d.com/gallery/#images/60686/
Do you have to turn off or change a value of some kind when doing this (changing render quality or something)?
Do you have to turn off or change a value of some kind when doing this (changing render quality or something)? If you wish, or just decide when it looks good enough.
Um, what value then? ;) Samples, Quality, or just render as normal and stop it sooner?
So far I have seen some nice renders, sadly however the great majority are outside renders with sunlight.
How does it perform on inside renders, how easy is it?
How does it perform on nighttime, cloudy, frosty, etc?
Much depends on what you need. If your primary need is speed, change the time value. :) If 75% is good enough, then change the convergence value. If you want no more than a specific number of iterations, because in your experience that is enough, then change the iterations.
Unfortunately what is "good enough." is highly subjective. Only you know what you really want. LOL.
Most of all, are we going to have to replace all the shaders we gathered throughout the DS4 progress?
You don't have to add lights to fake Global illumination, or use Ambient Occlusion and get the distance correct.
You don't have to guess at values for soft shadows, just use real world light values and sizes.
Lighting is significantly easier to set up, than it is in a biased render engine.
You don't have to add lights to fake Global illumination, or use Ambient Occlusion and get the distance correct.
You don't have to guess at values for soft shadows, just use real world light values and sizes.
Lighting is significantly easier to set up, than it is in a biased render engine. Agreed, you just have to crank up the Film ISO, allot. Or the render will be Black.
PS, my renders are inside, using flat area lights and Photometric ones... as I dig in this thread for my posts. (EDIT) mind you I had cranked the lights way up, till it looked like that in 3delight... before discovering the default Film ISO thing was way off for inside.
ISO comparison
http://www.daz3d.com/forums/viewreply/780149/
just cranked lights
http://www.daz3d.com/forums/viewreply/780081/
etc
No, you still have the option to use them in 3Delight.
Kat
No, you still have the option to use them in 3Delight.
Katsame, That polished Hematite floor in my test chamber (PS free mat for that, and the color cube)... I didn't touch that, or the figures, or much of anything. (EDIT) just the mirror ball, and the lights.
I was pleased that at least some of the gummy/plastic shader pack I got seem to work fine in Iray.
Metal/woods pack less so, but I have a lot of helpful maps that can possibly mix well with presets.
Here is another one. Render time was about 25 minutes (CPU mode, Intel Core I7 @ 3.4 Ghz).
There is absolutely no postwork in it. The background was inserted as backdrop in DAZ Studio and the light effect is Iray´s Bloom Filter. The Bloom Filter is really nice, I just have to play more with the settings.
Oh, and there is only one light source in this image, coming from the left side. The light you see on the right side of the figure (looking like a back light) is not a light source! I simply placed a vertical plane next to the figure, on the right side, just out of the camera view. And this plane bounces the light back to the figure.
And that is no trick at all, it is just the nature of light. It bounces back from surfaces. And Iray respects that nature, because it is a PB render engine. And that´s why you need much less lights with these render engines (Iray, Luxrender, Octane,...) compared to 3Delight.
A quick(ish) render - took about 15 minutes. I wanted to set up some objects replicating a lightbox like I've used in real world photography. So it's using the following:
- 2 photometric spots with default settings & shadows on, one on each side shining through a semi-opaque surface
- I used tone mapping to adjust the brightness: shutter speed 72, Fstop 2, white point 0.77
- Environment mode: Scene only
I can't seem to work out how to remove all the noise though. Iv'e set Noise Filter Enable to On. The max samples was set to 7000 and the rendering quality 20.0 (by mistake! I meant to set it to 2).
Can anyone advise how to best remove noise? Noise degrain filtering was 0 so maybe I should have set that ...?
Also I was trying to add a colour tint to the glass without success.
I wonder.... how do you people shader eyes, especially the surface? Because mine is always way too reflective and I cannot get the look right... :)
Let it render for considerably longer, or render the same amount of time at a larger size and then shrink it to the original size.
Michael 6 HD. I'm very happy with the results. To the point of another poster about indoor scenes. This is made with two mesh lights and one reflector and uses the scene lights only.
Set the reflection layer to cutout opacity 0 to just get rid of it. It's a part that does not exist in the real eye and was originally meant to put fakey transmap reflections there.
I've been experimenting with also setting the other eye parts (sclera, cornea, iris) to specular/glossiness instead of metallicity/roughness.
Set the reflection layer to cutout opacity 0 to just get rid of it. It's a part that does not exist in the real eye and was originally meant to put fakey transmap reflections there.
I've been experimenting with also setting the other eye parts (sclera, cornea, iris) to specular/glossiness instead of metallicity/roughness.
Thank you! I just realized how dumb my question actually was, hahaha! ;)
Greetings,
HUH! I'd been rendering at higher resolutions and cutting down for a while, mostly because it allows postwork at the high resolution which makes editing fiddly details easier, before downsampling. I hadn't even thought of applying it to Iray, as I was afraid it would increase render time, but of course it doesn't if I'm going for the lower eventual resolution, and terminate it early.
Funny thing about film ISO; it's one of the things I fought with for years with cameras. I hated how much grain ISO 1600 film had, but it was the only way to take photos of my gaming group, because the rooms we were in were always dark. Now, of course, that same knowledge applies to these images... If it's dark, bump up your film type.
Does Iray embed the tone settings in the EXIF-or-equivalent of the resultant image?
-- Morgan
Let it render for considerably longer, or render the same amount of time at a larger size and then shrink it to the original size.Slight word of caution about shrinking down images. It involves filters, and some are better then others, tho they are all less good at any thing other then round numbers 1/2, 1/4, etc. shrinking an image to say 2/3 is going to not look as good as reducing it in half.
As for tinting the glass, I don't know. I wish I did.
There is one nice thing about digital ISO1600 film...no grain ;-)
One of my professional photographer friends explained that problem was due to the particle size used when making the film and without going through elaborate processes 800 was the best you could usually make, using the tech at the time. There were some special order (read very expensive) 1600 films available with less grain. 1600 was never really a 'mainstream' film, anyway.