Show Us Your Iray Renders. Part IV

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Comments

  • deleted userdeleted user Posts: 1,204
    edited December 1969

    How do you check to make sure? Hard to tell if a black n white picture is grey scale just by looking at it. =D

  • L'AdairL'Adair Posts: 9,479
    edited December 1969

    MEC4D said:
    I just tested and sett Cutout Opacity to 0 does not cast any shadows on the model no matter converted to Iray shader or not , it maybe something else on the hand here but I am sure not Cutout Opacity , you may have a texture plug in in the opacity that is not 0 black


    ACross said:
    I don't know if this is an issue the old hands are fully aware of, but it caught me by surprise.

    Using Super Dress and Super Leggings, I gave my character leggings that came just below the knee. But when I rendered the scene in Iray, her legs came out really dark. After a bit of trial and error, I was able to determine setting Cutout Opacity to 0 didn't prevent the invisible sections from affecting the render. I suspect the hidden sections are casting a shadow. The DAZ Rose has the same problem. The petals, calyx and leaves all have a hidden "back" for 3D printing purposes. The white rose came out gray.

    The solution is quite simple, really. Instead of setting Cutout Opacity to 0, set it to 1.00 and then add an image map of solid black.

    Here is the same scene both ways, though one was rendered without the Island Grounds so it's missing the shadows from the tree.

    Arrgh!

    Operator error. Here I thought I'd discovered something important... And what was really going on was Render Mode was set to Interactive!

    I suppose it could be an important issue, if one is deliberately using the Interactive render mode...

    Color me embarrassed. Sheesh.

  • MEC4DMEC4D Posts: 5,249
    edited December 1969

    Nothing lost Anita , now you know and can inform others if someone else have issue like that in the future , still discovery ....


    ACross said:
    MEC4D said:
    I just tested and sett Cutout Opacity to 0 does not cast any shadows on the model no matter converted to Iray shader or not , it maybe something else on the hand here but I am sure not Cutout Opacity , you may have a texture plug in in the opacity that is not 0 black


    ACross said:
    I don't know if this is an issue the old hands are fully aware of, but it caught me by surprise.

    Using Super Dress and Super Leggings, I gave my character leggings that came just below the knee. But when I rendered the scene in Iray, her legs came out really dark. After a bit of trial and error, I was able to determine setting Cutout Opacity to 0 didn't prevent the invisible sections from affecting the render. I suspect the hidden sections are casting a shadow. The DAZ Rose has the same problem. The petals, calyx and leaves all have a hidden "back" for 3D printing purposes. The white rose came out gray.

    The solution is quite simple, really. Instead of setting Cutout Opacity to 0, set it to 1.00 and then add an image map of solid black.

    Here is the same scene both ways, though one was rendered without the Island Grounds so it's missing the shadows from the tree.

    Arrgh!

    Operator error. Here I thought I'd discovered something important... And what was really going on was Render Mode was set to Interactive!

    I suppose it could be an important issue, if one is deliberately using the Interactive render mode...

    Color me embarrassed. Sheesh.

  • deleted userdeleted user Posts: 1,204
    edited December 1969

    Anyhow, this is my second round at iRay. Mind you I don't own a Nvidia Graphics card. Keep in mind this is only my second iRay render as well.

    Cassy, shes a little goof pot. Kinda cheeky. Never takes anything seriously. lol

    Speaking of taking it seriously. I didn't let it finish because I wanted some tips first before I call it a final.

    Umm... Without using iRay shaders for the skin - I like my SSS, Any advise on how to use the SSS with iRay would be appreciated.
    IMHO - iRay skin shader and base shader make the skin look hard, and rough, and sandy. Like chalk...
    Not a big fan of the iRay skin shader.

    This is my own opinion. Take it with a grain of chalk. hehehe

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  • KhoryKhory Posts: 3,854
    edited December 1969

    Umm… Without using iRay shaders for the skin - I like my SSS, Any advise on how to use the SSS with iRay would be appreciated.
    It converts reasonaly well but a good preset for the skin will give you much better results

    IMHO - iRay skin shader and base shader make the skin look hard, and rough, and sandy. Like chalk…


    Is not really a good preset for skin in my opinion. Your better of taking a few notes from early in these threads about what other people are doing to update skin textures that they already own.
  • deleted userdeleted user Posts: 1,204
    edited June 2015

    Like where? I've no idea where to begin to look. If I type in skin and/or iRay into the search I get a billion results.

    Post edited by deleted user on
  • deleted userdeleted user Posts: 1,204
    edited December 1969
  • kyoto kidkyoto kid Posts: 41,838
    edited December 1969

    Anyhow, this is my second round at iRay. Mind you I don't own a Nvidia Graphics card. Keep in mind this is only my second iRay render as well.

    Cassy, shes a little goof pot. Kinda cheeky. Never takes anything seriously. lol

    Speaking of taking it seriously. I didn't let it finish because I wanted some tips first before I call it a final.

    Umm... Without using iRay shaders for the skin - I like my SSS, Any advise on how to use the SSS with iRay would be appreciated.
    IMHO - iRay skin shader and base shader make the skin look hard, and rough, and sandy. Like chalk...
    Not a big fan of the iRay skin shader.

    This is my own opinion. Take it with a grain of chalk. hehehe


    ...ohh but she's so cute.

    My Leela is jealous now. ;-)

  • aaron575aaron575 Posts: 146
    edited December 1969

    Just playing with stuff.

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  • KhoryKhory Posts: 3,854
    edited December 1969

    Happy to help FlowerGirl. Your going to find as you explore that some of it is just aesthetic choices. How you personally think it should look in a render.

  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 15,085
    edited December 1969

    My skin advice:
    Start with Iray Optimized skin version of whatever you have.

    Change top coat to Fresnel for skin and lips.

    Change mode of skin to PBR Specularity/glossiness
    Change gloss color to 192 value gray
    Gloss weight .5, glossiness .7

    Top coat weight .5, Top coat IOR 1.34, glossiness .3 (tweak this and gloss to get the look you want)

    Remove any glossy weight/color maps, or top coat weight/color maps. If you DO use them, adjust the weights upward to compensate.

    Skin refraction IOR: 1.41. Refraction weight .12 (this will up processing time, but makes for a REALLY nice soft look to the skin)


    If the skin is darker, consider lowering translucency weight to .3 or lower.

    Eyes:
    Eye cornea on shaping set to '1' (rounded cornea)
    Put the diffuse/base color map of the iris into the glossy color, too.


    That... should get you a pretty good-looking character, I think.

  • deleted userdeleted user Posts: 1,204
    edited December 1969

    PBR whats that stand for?

  • deleted userdeleted user Posts: 1,204
    edited December 1969

    Also, there has GOT to be a way to save these settings. One thing that always bugged me about surfaces is that I dont know how to save the adjustment settings without saving the image maps. I would like to apply these settings to another girl I'm workin on once I'm done but she is a V4 and what I'm using atm is a K4.

  • jpb06tjpb06t Posts: 272
    edited December 1969

    Physically Based Renderer.

  • SadCubesSadCubes Posts: 32
    edited December 1969

    Also, there has GOT to be a way to save these settings. One thing that always bugged me about surfaces is that I dont know how to save the adjustment settings without saving the image maps. I would like to apply these settings to another girl I'm workin on once I'm done but she is a V4 and what I'm using atm is a K4.

    Follow these 3 steps :)

    For Step 3 you need to uncheck UV Map for each item in the list, ie expand Ears > Geometry > Uncheck UV Maps

    That's how I save em anyhow

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  • deleted userdeleted user Posts: 1,204
    edited December 1969

    Since you guys are helping me, I will return the favor and help you. With Hair. The trick to hair is to understand how it works. Hair is translucent, just like skin. Even more so being technically dead fibers. The trick to getting hair to look nice is to take the opacity maps into photoshop, and sharpening the image. This will give you individual hairs. Then, lower the brightness and contrast. Making NOT perfectly solid anymore. Allowing light to pass through the hair. If you have even seen a photo where the sun is in the back ground. You will notice you can see the light through the hair. This is because hair is not perfectly solid. Under a microscope you can see its made up of thousands of tiny partials that look like crystals and salt, (That is what gives hair its specularity and shine.) Adding translucency to your now refurbished hair maps will give it a much more realistic result, and even adding volume to a flat surface. The fact of the matter is, if you can master opacity maps, and translucent speculairty. You don't even NEED an base/diffuse image map. The Diffuse image maps are only there to "fake" hair. This advise is universal. and can be applied to any render engine. Whether it be 3Delight, iRay, 3DsMax, Lux... It dont matter. Because this is based on physics, not rendering engines.

    This is what I got so far. From reading some reply's and threads.
    So how do I make the skin more translucent? I did change the translucency, but it didn't seem to do much of anything.

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  • deleted userdeleted user Posts: 1,204
    edited December 1969

    sadcubes said:
    Also, there has GOT to be a way to save these settings. One thing that always bugged me about surfaces is that I dont know how to save the adjustment settings without saving the image maps. I would like to apply these settings to another girl I'm workin on once I'm done but she is a V4 and what I'm using atm is a K4.

    Follow these 3 steps :)

    For Step 3 you need to uncheck UV Map for each item in the list, ie expand Ears > Geometry > Uncheck UV Maps

    That's how I save em anyhow

    That is for the materials. Unless I can exclude the image maps, that wont work. Its the surface settings I want to save. Not the image maps.

  • BeeMKayBeeMKay Posts: 7,019
    edited June 2015

    Here's something I'm working on.
    So far, I was always rather unhappy with clothing, i.e. displacement. I now found a way to make clothing look a bit more like what I have in mind.
    I'm using the Iray velvet fabric shader for this (except for the leather part, which gets the leather shader, of course ;-)). The velvet fabric shader is red by default, so I needed to tinker with the colors (mostly resetting them to white again). For the bump, I used a setting learned from hairs. I increase the base bump to 2.6, and then plug the same map used in Base Bump into displacement. Here, I set the weight to 0.5, and the min-max displacement to -0.3/0.3.
    I'm pretty happy with the results for this particular pair of "Twins" from a story/comic I'm working on.

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    Post edited by BeeMKay on
  • SadCubesSadCubes Posts: 32
    edited December 1969

    sadcubes said:
    Also, there has GOT to be a way to save these settings. One thing that always bugged me about surfaces is that I dont know how to save the adjustment settings without saving the image maps. I would like to apply these settings to another girl I'm workin on once I'm done but she is a V4 and what I'm using atm is a K4.

    Follow these 3 steps :)

    For Step 3 you need to uncheck UV Map for each item in the list, ie expand Ears > Geometry > Uncheck UV Maps

    That's how I save em anyhow

    That is for the materials. Unless I can exclude the image maps, that wont work. Its the surface settings I want to save. Not the image maps.

    That's what step 2 and 3 do. Remove saving the image maps and just keep values

  • mjc1016mjc1016 Posts: 15,001
    edited December 1969

    sadcubes said:
    Also, there has GOT to be a way to save these settings. One thing that always bugged me about surfaces is that I dont know how to save the adjustment settings without saving the image maps. I would like to apply these settings to another girl I'm workin on once I'm done but she is a V4 and what I'm using atm is a K4.

    Follow these 3 steps :)

    For Step 3 you need to uncheck UV Map for each item in the list, ie expand Ears > Geometry > Uncheck UV Maps

    That's how I save em anyhow

    That is for the materials. Unless I can exclude the image maps, that wont work. Its the surface settings I want to save. Not the image maps.

    When loading a saved preset Control-click. It will bring up a dialog box. In that box, you will have 2 options under Images... Replace (that one replaces all the image maps you currently have loaded with the ones from the preset) and Ignore (that one ignores the image maps in the preset and retains the originals). Then, after you have that loaded...save a new preset for that specific set of maps.

  • deleted userdeleted user Posts: 1,204
    edited December 1969

    On an unrelated topic I was trying to use my INJ that I used for Cassy on G2F because I can do worlds more stuff with g2f then I can kids 4. I genx'd the inj and kids 4 and the morphlets+++ with Gex2. But when I click on the inj nothing happens. Can someone help? I want to use Cassy as a G2F. =(

  • LyonessLyoness Posts: 1,632
    edited December 1969

    On an unrelated topic I was trying to use my INJ that I used for Cassy on G2F because I can do worlds more stuff with g2f then I can kids 4. I genx'd the inj and kids 4 and the morphlets+++ with Gex2. But when I click on the inj nothing happens. Can someone help? I want to use Cassy as a G2F. =(

    I have done conversions with genX in that past and updated them, but there are many steps that can go wrong. If you've completed a GenX morph then it should be able to be found in the Shape Tab. I would search there first. Pull up the V4 dial and then your morph file.

  • deleted userdeleted user Posts: 1,204
    edited December 1969

    Yeah all the mophs are there. Thats what I dont get :/

  • SimonJMSimonJM Posts: 6,067
    edited December 1969

    ACross said:
    I don't know if this is an issue the old hands are fully aware of, but it caught me by surprise.

    Using Super Dress and Super Leggings, I gave my character leggings that came just below the knee. But when I rendered the scene in Iray, her legs came out really dark. After a bit of trial and error, I was able to determine setting Cutout Opacity to 0 didn't prevent the invisible sections from affecting the render. I suspect the hidden sections are casting a shadow. The DAZ Rose has the same problem. The petals, calyx and leaves all have a hidden "back" for 3D printing purposes. The white rose came out gray.

    The solution is quite simple, really. Instead of setting Cutout Opacity to 0, set it to 1.00 and then add an image map of solid black.

    Here is the same scene both ways, though one was rendered without the Island Grounds so it's missing the shadows from the tree.

    Yes, I stumbled over this. Unless you have a map of any sort then the opacity slider has no effect. What is strange is that using the 'normal' viewport shows the transparency! A quick way I found of doing this (mapping out a whole material zone using nothing but Opacity of 0%) is to go to the setting, pick the drop down to select a map, pick the LIE option and in there add a layer (and not actually adding an image), and use the options to make it solid black, and save.
    More annoyingly, in some ways, I no longer seem to have the problem! ;)

  • TJohnTJohn Posts: 11,339
    edited December 1969

    aaron575 said:
    tjohn said:
    Belle 6 as a 5-year-old using Growing Up.
    Using one of Dimension Theory's Interior HDRIs as the only light.
    Truly amazing render, everything is just perfect.
    Thank you.
  • MusicplayerMusicplayer Posts: 515
    edited June 2015

    Vandal

    The scene is Stonemason's Tin Pan Alley http://www.daz3d.com/tin-pan-alley with his rubble props http://www.daz3d.com/rubble
    I am finding that Stonemason's props seem to render 'straight out of the box' without the need for any Iray shaders. His texture maps are always incredibly detailed.

    The lighting was the 'Ruins' HDRI supplied with Daz Studio 4.8 Pro, and a sphere placed by the camera with DAZ Uber Emissive shader applied to give eye reflections. However, this did not seem to work so well here as it has done before in some of my previous renders.

    The characters skin texture applied to my G2M model is an old M4 texture 'SAV 1984 Apollo by StudioArtVartanian' purchased from renderosity.com some years ago, and still available there for purchase. It has been applied to the 'Jordan' shape from this product http://www.daz3d.com/young-jarek-shapes-for-genesis-2-male-s-and-brodie-6-hd

    Older texture maps appear to come out quite well in Iray but I find that I have to adjust the Translucency Weight down to only 0.20 or 0.30.
    On these older texture maps a higher Translucency Weight just starts to turn them very dark with a total loss of detail.

    Clothing, necklace and bat were from http://www.daz3d.com/vandals-for-genesis-2-male-s

    I'm sure this guy isn't really a vandal....just acting a bit tough. :lol:

    Cheers.

    :-)

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    Post edited by Musicplayer on
  • TotteTotte Posts: 14,677
    edited December 1969

    Ulfnaar making his morning weapons training

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  • boisselazonboisselazon Posts: 458
    edited December 1969

    nice, wich sword did you use? did you tweak the mat of it?

  • TotteTotte Posts: 14,677
    edited December 1969

    Merlin's Katana and Porsimo's Fantasy weapons, only turn mats into Iray Uber and pulled up the metaiic. Porsimo's and most of Merlin's stuff really works when you do that. I had another sword for Ulfnaar (the left hand one) but it looked crappy when you saw it close up even with metallic so I changed his sword for this image.

This discussion has been closed.