Pd Iray Shader Kit... WOW

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  • barbultbarbult Posts: 26,221

    I've run into something unexpected. When I apply a bump map from the product, it changes my tiling size. Is that intentional?

    What happened was that I applied the Silk 1, a color, and a pattern and then adjusted the tiling with the script. I had set the tiling to different settings for different surfaces. When I had everything just like I wanted it, I realized I hadn't applied the bump setting, so I went back and did that. I was surprised to see that my carefully tweaked tiling was all reset to a value selected by the bump setting.

  • barbult said:

    I've run into something unexpected. When I apply a bump map from the product, it changes my tiling size. Is that intentional?

    What happened was that I applied the Silk 1, a color, and a pattern and then adjusted the tiling with the script. I had set the tiling to different settings for different surfaces. When I had everything just like I wanted it, I realized I hadn't applied the bump setting, so I went back and did that. I was surprised to see that my carefully tweaked tiling was all reset to a value selected by the bump setting.

    Yes, that's how it work. The patterns have their own bumps. The presets that are just bumps are meant to be used with solid colors. I hope I put that in the pdf. I can't see it right now because I am just on my phone.
  • barbultbarbult Posts: 26,221
    barbult said:

    I've run into something unexpected. When I apply a bump map from the product, it changes my tiling size. Is that intentional?

    What happened was that I applied the Silk 1, a color, and a pattern and then adjusted the tiling with the script. I had set the tiling to different settings for different surfaces. When I had everything just like I wanted it, I realized I hadn't applied the bump setting, so I went back and did that. I was surprised to see that my carefully tweaked tiling was all reset to a value selected by the bump setting.

     

    Yes, that's how it work. The patterns have their own bumps. The presets that are just bumps are meant to be used with solid colors. I hope I put that in the pdf. I can't see it right now because I am just on my phone.

    Oh! You did put that very clearly in the PDF, now that I went back to check! I'd better go back and read it again, now that I've used it some. I might learn another thing or two that didn't sink in the first time around. Thanks.

  • barbultbarbult Posts: 26,221
    edited October 2015

    I have now created a custom action for the tiling script and added it to my toolbar. It is always right there for me to click on without having to search for it in the Content Library. I have deleted what seems like hundreds of tiling icons from other products, which cleaned up tremendous clutter and makes things easier to find.smileyheartyes

    Post edited by barbult on
  • barbult said:

    I have now created a custom action for the tiling script and added it to my toolbar. It is always right there for me to click on without having to search for it in the Content Library. I have deleted what seems like hundreds of tiling icons from other products, which cleaned up tremendous clutter and makes things easier to find.smileyheartyes

    That sounds good! I'm going to do that too if I can figure out how. I'll also post some screen shots tonight on saving your own presets.
  • barbultbarbult Posts: 26,221
    edited October 2015

    New trick - use the Image Editor in the Surfaces tab to adjust opacity by changing the gamma of the Cutout Opacity channel image map. Lower the gamma for a more opaque look. Increase the gamma to make the texture more see through. The Cutout Opacity value remains at 1.00 (or whatever you had it set to). Changing the gamma is kind of like lightening or darkening the image used in the Cutout Opacity channel.

    (Here I used the Geometry Editor to create some new surfaces on the Evening Gown for G2F to put the trims in the middle, but that has nothing to do with the gamma tip). I used Organza on the bottom frills, but it was more transparent than I wanted. I adjusted the gamma of the image texture in the Cutout Opacity to gamma 0.5.

    Gamma 0.5gamma 1.0

     

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    Post edited by barbult on
  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 15,085

    That's a clever idea. If I understand it right, should essentially 'push' the image lighter or darker, rather than simply shifting it (like changing Cutout Opacity to, say, 1.5 or something would do)

     

  • barbultbarbult Posts: 26,221

    That's a clever idea. If I understand it right, should essentially 'push' the image lighter or darker, rather than simply shifting it (like changing Cutout Opacity to, say, 1.5 or something would do)

     

    Hmm, I hadn't tried change Cutout Opacity to a value greater than 1. I had forgotten that that was possible. I'll try it.

  • barbult said:

    I have now created a custom action for the tiling script and added it to my toolbar. It is always right there for me to click on without having to search for it in the Content Library. I have deleted what seems like hundreds of tiling icons from other products, which cleaned up tremendous clutter and makes things easier to find.smileyheartyes

     

    That sounds good! I'm going to do that too if I can figure out how. I'll also post some screen shots tonight on saving your own presets.

    Right-click on the preset in a content pane and from the menu select Create Custom Action. That will place it on the Scripts menu, you can move it elsewhere using Window>Workspace>Customise in the menis tab on the right.

  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 15,085

    Barbult: I've had good results with that and some transmapped hair, probably (now that the subject has come up) due to gamma issues with the transmap.

    Usually Cutout 1.5 works fine.

     

  • barbultbarbult Posts: 26,221
    edited October 2015

    Here is the image with image editor gamma 1.0 (default) and cutout opacity 1.5. The result is almost the same as image editor gamma 0.5 and cutout opacity 1.0. The texture of the fabric is a little more pronounced in the one that changes the cutout opacity.

    cutout opacity 1.5

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    Post edited by barbult on
  • luci45luci45 Posts: 2,885
    edited October 2015

    Wow, barbult and timmins.william, thanks for the tip(s) I think I like the cutout opacity 1.5 better so the bumpmap shows more.

    Just goofing around here and wanted to pass the TOS without having to make barbult-style painted underwear, though I will have to at some point. So this flambouyant dude is an old rocker type - I think Steve Tyler might were something like this. Hehe. It didn't finish rendering because it is a hot day where I live and my GPU isn't making things better. 

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  • barbultbarbult Posts: 26,221

    Luci45, that definitely looks like a Steven Tyler outfit - maybe a few more flowing scarves would clinch it. It looks great. You must have spun some dials on that guy. I don't recognize the face.

  • MavroshMavrosh Posts: 111

    And another one. This set is super versatile. :-)

  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 15,085

    Luci: Glad it was helpful! Looks very cool.

     

  • barbultbarbult Posts: 26,221
    Mavrosh, both of those are very nice. The fabrics look very rich.
  • barbult said:

    I have now created a custom action for the tiling script and added it to my toolbar. It is always right there for me to click on without having to search for it in the Content Library. I have deleted what seems like hundreds of tiling icons from other products, which cleaned up tremendous clutter and makes things easier to find.smileyheartyes

     

    That sounds good! I'm going to do that too if I can figure out how. I'll also post some screen shots tonight on saving your own presets.

    Right-click on the preset in a content pane and from the menu select Create Custom Action. That will place it on the Scripts menu, you can move it elsewhere using Window>Workspace>Customise in the menis tab on the right.

    Thanks Richard! That was easy.

  • MavroshMavrosh Posts: 111
    barbult said:
    Mavrosh, both of those are very nice. The fabrics look very rich.

    Thank you! It just really shows how well these work. :D

  • I am really enjoying this thread. All the great ideas and all the great renders... it's really fun! Thank you all!

  • parrotdolphinparrotdolphin Posts: 110
    edited October 2015

    Ok, here is how you can save your own presets to use whenever. (I typed scrren as screen. Oops!)

     

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  • luci45luci45 Posts: 2,885

    Thanks, timmins.william and barbult. Definitely more flowing scarves. I don't think I have any. That is Genesis 1 with M5, M5 Hero, a bit of Goblin and a bunch of dialed morphs. I did it a while ago and never used him for anything - guess he was waiting for the Pd Iray Shader Kit. laugh

    Mavrosh, another beautiful render! I love the promos you did for the Shaders. They look really awesome in your awesome lighting on your oh-so-hot guys.

    I have a dumb question which I might figure out eventually with more experimenting (or if I read the pdf more thorougly.) What does the LIE layer do? What I mean is why is it necessary? It looks opaque to me and the whole point of LIE is for the layer underneath to show through. 

  • barbultbarbult Posts: 26,221

    The LIE is basically a two-color pattern. You can use the Layered Image Editor to change each of the two colors. I don't think LIE layer is meant to go over another layer, but to stand alone.

  • barbult said:

    The LIE is basically a two-color pattern. You can use the Layered Image Editor to change each of the two colors. I don't think LIE layer is meant to go over another layer, but to stand alone.

    Right, it's just a way of changing the colors from the blue and dark red that they come in as to whatever two colors you want. On page 2 of this thread, 3rd post from the bottom, I attached some screenshots which explain how to change the colors.

    Luci, depending on the pattern you use, one of the LIE colors might not be too obvious since it would be mostly transparent.  The transparency comes from the Cutout map, not from the LIE. You can also get rid of the transparency by using the preset that says ALL OPAQUE, NO CUTOUT MAP, NO TRANSPARENCY on the thumbnail.

     

  • luci45luci45 Posts: 2,885
    barbult said:

    The LIE is basically a two-color pattern. You can use the Layered Image Editor to change each of the two colors. I don't think LIE layer is meant to go over another layer, but to stand alone.

    Right, it's just a way of changing the colors from the blue and dark red that they come in as to whatever two colors you want. On page 2 of this thread, 3rd post from the bottom, I attached some screenshots which explain how to change the colors.

    Luci, depending on the pattern you use, one of the LIE colors might not be too obvious since it would be mostly transparent.  The transparency comes from the Cutout map, not from the LIE. You can also get rid of the transparency by using the preset that says ALL OPAQUE, NO CUTOUT MAP, NO TRANSPARENCY on the thumbnail.

     

    Thanks, I played with it some more and I see that some have cutouts and some don't. I love the subtlety of the cutouts. And I love being able to change colors for the layers so easily. Wow!

    These shaders are just gorgeous - the silk 2 is especially amazing. They will keep me busy for a while and maybe I will make some new patterns in Photoshop since they will render so well now! Thank you so much for these!

  • barbultbarbult Posts: 26,221
    edited October 2015

    Here is an interesting lesson I got reminded of today:

    When you use a tiled shader on a surface that has displacement map, the displacement map will be tiled, too.

    In this image I used the StreetWear T-Shirt For M6, which has a displacement map. The displacement map is not intended to be tiled; it covers the entire shirt area to add wrinkles in specific places. When I applied the PD Shader Kit athletic knit and adjusted the tiling to the size I wanted, it was set to 20. The first time I rendered, I got strange pokey things on the shirt. I was puzzled until I realized what happened - the displacement map that was designed to cover the whole shirt was scaled down and tiled across the shirt 20 times! The PD Shader Kit comes with a handy icon to zero displacement and normal maps, to take care of problems like this. The only downside to that is that you lose those displacement wrinkles. So an alternative that has worked well for me is to use the Image Editor in the Surfaces tab to set instance tiling to the reciprocal of the overall tiling to compensate. That results in the displacement map fitting the whole shirt correctly again.

    This is probably my last post here for a while, because I leave tomorrow on a long trip. Have fun and render great stuff!

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    Post edited by barbult on
  • L'AdairL'Adair Posts: 9,479

    Have fun, and stay safe, Barbult.

    (And I've got to learn how to do that. I assume it works for Cutout Opacity too...)

  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 15,085

    I usually use image editor on each channel I want to tile, but tiling exceptions as a fraction works. Hadn't really thought of that, heh.

     

  • nicsttnicstt Posts: 11,715

    what would be useful, is the ability to change the bump tiling, whilst leaving the texture at 1.

  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 15,085

    Nicstt: You can?

    Again, image editor, click on the bump map, second tab. With Iray Uber shader, you can individually tile any texture map differently from one another.

     

  • mtl1mtl1 Posts: 1,508
    edited October 2015
    barbult said:

    Here is an interesting lesson I got reminded of today:

    When you use a tiled shader on a surface that has displacement map, the displacement map will be tiled, too.

    In this image I used the StreetWear T-Shirt For M6, which has a displacement map. The displacement map is not intended to be tiled; it covers the entire shirt area to add wrinkles in specific places. When I applied the PD Shader Kit athletic knit and adjusted the tiling to the size I wanted, it was set to 20. The first time I rendered, I got strange pokey things on the shirt. I was puzzled until I realized what happened - the displacement map that was designed to cover the whole shirt was scaled down and tiled across the shirt 20 times! The PD Shader Kit comes with a handy icon to zero displacement and normal maps, to take care of problems like this. The only downside to that is that you lose those displacement wrinkles. So an alternative that has worked well for me is to use the Image Editor in the Surfaces tab to set instance tiling to the reciprocal of the overall tiling to compensate. That results in the displacement map fitting the whole shirt correctly again.

    This is probably my last post here for a while, because I leave tomorrow on a long trip. Have fun and render great stuff!

    mCasual has a script that can help you get around this. I believe it pushes tiled textures into a single texture so you can tile the displacement/bump/whatever maps as you want. (edit: I believe that was for 3Delight, so the Iray shaders may work a little differently)

    I believe this shader kit also has tile "multiplier" scripts built in too.

    Post edited by mtl1 on
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