Time for sharing, what I have no idea!

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Comments

  • AJ2112AJ2112 Posts: 1,416

    Thanks for surface education friend.  Now, I have a ton of questions, Rofl !!!!  Questions, which would probably be difficult to answer.  Such as how do you make these discoveries, removing maps from all glossy, etc.... this is the sections that baffles me.  Steps I need to take to balance surfaces.  All your adjustments, create balance, a technique i'd love to achieve.   

  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634

    How by going any looking up what PBR is and learning. Plus using Substance Painter taught me more about what is and isn't needed in terms of proper PBR (Physically Based Rendering) maps. Before I got SP I spent hours, days and weeks trying things out making roughness maps by hand in Photoshop I even made some Greyscale Swatches in PS that correspond to a DAZ Studio roughness value, given Iray is Linear and the colour picker is not. Meaning 128 grey is not 0.50 roughness etc. 

  • AJ2112AJ2112 Posts: 1,416

    Thanks for the massive confusion, need another 2 liters of coke, wake up my brain, Rofl !!!!!!!  I did look up PBR, Pebble bed reactor came up on google, no joke, Lol !!!  In seriousness, thanks for tips, will do some research on PBR.  Think, I'll just render everything in black and white, problem solved, Lol !!! wink  Take it easy friend. 

  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634

    try this https://learnopengl.com/PBR/Theory for starters

  • AJ2112AJ2112 Posts: 1,416

    Thanks bud, truly appreciate all your assistance.  Would love to learn surfaces other then base figures, change of pace smiley

  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634
    edited March 2019

    My pleasure AJ.

     

    Ok here we go again I bought this set https://www.daz3d.com/reed-plants-for-daz-studio-and-iray which it states "Iray Shaders to add translucency, bloom and general realism to your renders in a few clicks of a mouse". What a disappointment when I loaded one and render it with the DS default Sun and Sky.

     

    As you can see it doesn't look to well as it loads. There were so many things wrong with the shader implementation I had to rework the whole thing. It was amix or Metal/Rough and Weighted shaders. But I did learn something though that adding SSS to plants can make a nice difference compared with just using Translucency alone but i wouldn't have chosen the SSS transmitted colours used,.As it turns out my "First Adjustment" one looks the best in an image situation. 

    So from right to left.

    Far Right; as it loads

    Second from Right; I used the diffuse colour, set in the original, in Translucency and set to Scatter, Transmit and Intensity and also in the SSS colour. Turned off Top Coat and adjust Glossy Weight channels making the gloss colour white.

    Second From Leftt; the same as the second from right without SSS, that is the only difference.

    Far Left; has no SSS and all Diffuse and Translucency Colours set to 0.54 Gray (192 gray in old money)

     

    I am doing this for two reasons, one to show how others can make their Iray props look better and second to have a moan. LOL

    In this era it amazes me how this stuff gets passed by Q&A given it is an Iray only product. PBR is PBR there is no other way not like 3DL where one was expected to adjust things. I do like Martin's products, I have a number of them but I am forever having to fix things. I spend more time doing so than making my images and it is starting to wear thin. No point and saying contact DAZ3D about this my last two Tickets haven't been answered yet, over a week for one of them. Plus I like the models, if I didn't I would return them in a heartbeat. 

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  • AJ2112AJ2112 Posts: 1,416

    Hi Pete, thanks for sharing your PBR methods.  Wow !  Impressive transition.  Exactly what I was trying to share, pertaining to prop materials, to many are over saturated and glossy, looks like plastic, regardless of light source.  So, diffuse and Tanslucency adjust color, top coat and glossy weight adjust gloss.  Correct ?  I've never used SSS so, cannot chime in.  But, SSS trans color can combine with translucency.  Wonderful, time to experiement.  I've uploaded non metal props that had metallicty values, I'm thinkin huh ?  As they say, more shine, more beauty.     

    I agree, pertaining to Q&A inspections.  It's like going to a toy store, purchase a toy, go home, take it apart, put it back together for toy to work properly.  Insane, Rofl !!!!  Other stores have access to contacting PA's directly.

    Once again thanks for sharing yes

     

  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634

    No problem.

     

    In this case I removed Top Coat completely, there is no need for it on plants. Top coat is more for coatings, varnish, car paint etc. The Glossy Weight section uses fresnel from the main IOR settings.  Glossy Weight for proper PBR maps should always be on 1.00. Non PBR then we will have to drop it down. Yes SSS and Translucency work together if THIN Walled is turned OFF

     

    Yeah non metals should never have Metalicity on, ever.

  • AJ2112AJ2112 Posts: 1,416
    edited March 2019

    Awesome ! Thanks for clarifying bud.  But, if individual desires fake plants, then Top coat map is used.  Gotcha top coat is like a varnish surface coat .  IOR controls surface glossy level.  Fab weekend lession. Now, I'm a newbie level 1 PBR texture artist, Rofl !!!!!!!!!!!  Have a good one friend smiley   

    Post edited by AJ2112 on
  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634

    ROFLOL yeah they do looks like those fake indoor plants I see in shopping malls over here.

    "IOR controls surface glossy level" sort of. Fresnel is calculated according to what the Main IOR is set to is probably more correct. It doesn't control Gloss so in effect It is Gloss Weight + Roughness + IOR = Fresnel well that is what I think it is. :)

  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634
    edited March 2019

    Eurasian Bitterns are from a planned re-release of Shorebirds Volumes 1-3.

    I think it is important that folks knew what lengths Ken goes to, to update these for free for folks that already own these. I won't go into details but it is a lot of work. How many vendors out there that do this, not many. I can't thank him enough so I do some renders, here's one I did earlier. ;) Actually I rendered it today as I was waiting for the updated files. :P The improvements are awesome.

    Songbird ReMix Shorebirds Volume Two: Herons & Bitterns https://hivewire3d.com/shop/shop-by-artist/ken-gilliland/shorebirds-complete.html

    Nature's Wonders Frogs https://hivewire3d.com/shop/shop-by-artist/ken-gilliland/nature-s-wonders-frogs.html

    Nature's Wonders Dragonflies & Damselflies of the World Vol. 1 https://hivewire3d.com/shop/shop-by-artist/ken-gilliland/nature-s-wonders-dragonflies-damselflies-of-the-world-vol-1.html

    Hell Creek Modules https://www.daz3d.com/hell-creek-modules repurposed a terrain and used Substance Painter to make a mud layer around the edge where it meets the water using a mask by rendering the terrain and water plane from the top camera making the water black and the terrain white.

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    Post edited by Szark on
  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634

    Jabiru Stork from

    SBRM Shorebirds - Wading Birds

    https://hivewire3d.com/songbird-remix-shorebirds-wading-birds.html

     

    Used Lisa's Dead bushes to make up the nest, among other branches I had lying around.

    Dead Bushes

    https://hivewire3d.com/shop/hw3d-collections/lisas-botanicals/dead-bushes.html ;

     

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  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634
    edited April 2019
    Szark said:

    @Taoz

    Ok here it is, since you asked. Hope it helps others too.

    Hell Creek Modules adjustments

     

    First off I removed all maps from;

    Glossy Layered Weight leaving it on 1.00

    Glossy Colour leaving it white

    Reflectivity setting it back to the default (Alt+Left Click on the value)

    Top Coat Weight

    Top Coat Roughness then setting Top Coat Weight to zero.

     

    Also before I saved out each module as a new Scene Subset I re-parented the contents to a Group Null so I can hide a complete module with one click.

     

    I then set Diffuse Roughness for the palms bark, tree trunks, tree log, tree stump, dead tree, stick debris and branches etc to 0.40. For plant leaves I used a value of 0.30. Diffuse roughness is for when light is absorbed and spread out more. I find it helps to soften the gloss settings on leaves. I didn't bother using any translucency on the Moss.

     

    All plant leaves use a Translucency value of 0.10, putting the diffuse map in the colour channel and set to Scatter, Transmit Intensity as I found it gave the best colour translucency according to the map. If you want to darken the effect use a mid grey in the colour bar.

     

    Followed the above for the Magnolias, Moss Clusters and Palm Sabal. For the Palm Tree leaves I did the above but replaced the Roughness map with the included Leaf Gloss map. I found the roughness map made the leaves to glossy. Personal choice. :)

     

    All map adjustments made with Photoshop CC2019 and suffixed with A so not to overwrite the originals, just in case. :)

     

    Terrains:

     

    Set Diffuse Roughness to 0.30 and Reflectivity to 0.30

    Diffuse maps I saturated (CTRL+U) at a value of +15

    Roughness maps I adjusted the Levels (CTRL+L) (Output Levels) Bottom Left to a value of 130 to make it lighter.

    This is includes the nest diffuse and roughness map

    Also while I was doing this I saved out some 4K maps for the terrains, for distant terrains.

     

    Metasequoias:

     

    Diffuse maps for the Trunk, (Break uses the trunk map) and Branches I saturated +20 and dropped the lightness down by -10

     

    Ground Cover:

     

    All Branches and Stick Debris: Adjusted Roughness map Levels (Output Levels) 190 to make them lighter.

     

    Cane Palm: I removed the roughness map and just used a value of 0.63. I didn't like the results using the map. I tried to adjust it but it still didn't look right for me. For a Translucency Weight Map I took the opacity map into PS and painted out the stems, leaving the leaves only.

     

    Rocks: Diffuse roughness of 0.30.

     

    Mushrooms: Diffuse Roughness 0.20 and I just dropped the Glossy Layered Weight to 0.50 (I was being lazy at this point LOL)

     

    Tree Log, Tree Stump and Dead Tree: Diffuse maps saturated +15 and Roughness map Levels (Output Levels) 190 to make them lighter.

     

    Eggs:

     

    Diffuse Roughness 0.10 Glossy Layered Weight 0.50. (Being lazy again)

     

    Some might ask why I went to this trouble, why not just return it if I wasn't happy that it didn't have true PBR materials and settings and to me wasn't that realistic. Well I love the set, modelling and textures are awesome and I can use for other things with different trees etc. Plus over the years I have acquired certain skills to do so. IMO I think is looks better for it. I am not saying I know it all but I do have a good understanding of PBR just don't ask me about human skins. I don't have any interest in human figures any more.

     

    Albedo maps need to be of a level of saturation so that it can cope with full Glossy Weight without looking too washed out and to better react to light. Legacy stuff needs Gloss weight lowered as the diffuse maps weren't made for PBR. But new stuff that is Iray only should IMO hold up to this standard. This set is not alone in this. I have a number of products that have Gloss maps in the Glossy Layered Weight node and I have done the same thing with them. Shame I have to.

    @Taoz after more testing I think setting Translucency to Scatter only at about 0.30 - 0.50 looks better plus we have more control with Scatter only. The other two seem to give little control with using the diffuse map as the translucency colour. In the case of the ferns it does make them look darker but they do look better from the underside view. I have found if Scatter, Transmit and Intensity is used the overall colour of the plants seem to pop more and look unnatural but it does depend on the maps used in the first place.

    Post edited by Szark on
  • TaozTaoz Posts: 9,704
    Szark said:
    Szark said:

    @Taoz

    Ok here it is, since you asked. Hope it helps others too.

    Hell Creek Modules adjustments

     

    First off I removed all maps from;

    Glossy Layered Weight leaving it on 1.00

    Glossy Colour leaving it white

    Reflectivity setting it back to the default (Alt+Left Click on the value)

    Top Coat Weight

    Top Coat Roughness then setting Top Coat Weight to zero.

     

    Also before I saved out each module as a new Scene Subset I re-parented the contents to a Group Null so I can hide a complete module with one click.

     

    I then set Diffuse Roughness for the palms bark, tree trunks, tree log, tree stump, dead tree, stick debris and branches etc to 0.40. For plant leaves I used a value of 0.30. Diffuse roughness is for when light is absorbed and spread out more. I find it helps to soften the gloss settings on leaves. I didn't bother using any translucency on the Moss.

     

    All plant leaves use a Translucency value of 0.10, putting the diffuse map in the colour channel and set to Scatter, Transmit Intensity as I found it gave the best colour translucency according to the map. If you want to darken the effect use a mid grey in the colour bar.

     

    Followed the above for the Magnolias, Moss Clusters and Palm Sabal. For the Palm Tree leaves I did the above but replaced the Roughness map with the included Leaf Gloss map. I found the roughness map made the leaves to glossy. Personal choice. :)

     

    All map adjustments made with Photoshop CC2019 and suffixed with A so not to overwrite the originals, just in case. :)

     

    Terrains:

     

    Set Diffuse Roughness to 0.30 and Reflectivity to 0.30

    Diffuse maps I saturated (CTRL+U) at a value of +15

    Roughness maps I adjusted the Levels (CTRL+L) (Output Levels) Bottom Left to a value of 130 to make it lighter.

    This is includes the nest diffuse and roughness map

    Also while I was doing this I saved out some 4K maps for the terrains, for distant terrains.

     

    Metasequoias:

     

    Diffuse maps for the Trunk, (Break uses the trunk map) and Branches I saturated +20 and dropped the lightness down by -10

     

    Ground Cover:

     

    All Branches and Stick Debris: Adjusted Roughness map Levels (Output Levels) 190 to make them lighter.

     

    Cane Palm: I removed the roughness map and just used a value of 0.63. I didn't like the results using the map. I tried to adjust it but it still didn't look right for me. For a Translucency Weight Map I took the opacity map into PS and painted out the stems, leaving the leaves only.

     

    Rocks: Diffuse roughness of 0.30.

     

    Mushrooms: Diffuse Roughness 0.20 and I just dropped the Glossy Layered Weight to 0.50 (I was being lazy at this point LOL)

     

    Tree Log, Tree Stump and Dead Tree: Diffuse maps saturated +15 and Roughness map Levels (Output Levels) 190 to make them lighter.

     

    Eggs:

     

    Diffuse Roughness 0.10 Glossy Layered Weight 0.50. (Being lazy again)

     

    Some might ask why I went to this trouble, why not just return it if I wasn't happy that it didn't have true PBR materials and settings and to me wasn't that realistic. Well I love the set, modelling and textures are awesome and I can use for other things with different trees etc. Plus over the years I have acquired certain skills to do so. IMO I think is looks better for it. I am not saying I know it all but I do have a good understanding of PBR just don't ask me about human skins. I don't have any interest in human figures any more.

     

    Albedo maps need to be of a level of saturation so that it can cope with full Glossy Weight without looking too washed out and to better react to light. Legacy stuff needs Gloss weight lowered as the diffuse maps weren't made for PBR. But new stuff that is Iray only should IMO hold up to this standard. This set is not alone in this. I have a number of products that have Gloss maps in the Glossy Layered Weight node and I have done the same thing with them. Shame I have to.

    @Taoz after more testing I think setting Translucency to Scatter only at about 0.30 - 0.50 looks better plus we have more control with Scatter only. The other two seem to give little control with using the diffuse map as the translucency colour. In the case of the ferns it does make them look darker but they do look better from the underside view. I have found if Scatter, Transmit and Intensity is used the overall colour of the plants seem to pop more and look unnatural but it does depend on the maps used in the first place.

    Thanks for the update Szark, been too busy to experiment with this so far but will give it a try during this week. Still ned to learn a lot about textures and shaders, I bought Esha's Iray Shader Guide a while ago but haven't got to explore it yet.  

  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634

    I think some PAs need to read this https://blendermarket.com/posts/how-to-deal-with-constructive-criticism?utm_source=intercom and understand that some people here just want to help.

  • AJ2112AJ2112 Posts: 1,416

    Fantastic article, marvelous advice, definetly helped me, thanks for sharing smiley

  • Good article; short and to the point.  I would add that it sometimes is nearly as hard to criticize as it is to be criticized!  I would like to think most people don't want to crush anyone's feelings, hopes, dreams, or little just-out-of-the-egg creations  (yes, I know there are trolls.  They belong under bridges!)  It takes care to create a thoughtful and constructive criticism, even as it takes patience and self-awareness to receive it and make the best use of it.  However, one good, valid critique is worth dozens of the warmest, sincerest praises, because it lets you borrow someone's eyes for a moment, and learn something new... even if it is simply a differering perspective.

    I love the frog in your Bittern picture, Szark!  I find my eye always looks for the little things, and I found that guy very pleasing.  Sorry, no criticisms here, today!

  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634

    thanks AJ

     

    Misselthwaite yes many can't critigue due lack of knowledge or experience. The few times I have tried to help it feel on deaf ears or taken the wrong way so i don't bother anymore. I personaly would love folks to rip my images to bits as I find it very helpful but alas I don't get that much. I have had commenst about my ant image that the scale between them isn't right but what they don't realise is that I do my research first so I know certain aspects are correct and yes sometimes not exacty realistic but close enough.

    I have a thick skin for such things. I ignore trolls.

     

    Thanks I am very detail orientated no matter the type of image I make. It can be a curse sometimes and epensive. :)

  • Scene fillers cost more than the scene, I know!  It also has to be just the right thing(s)...

    I'm not sure I could take be torn apart 24/7 (I have children to bring me low, already!) but I like to hear criticism... or, maybe call it a suggestion ;-)  The nice thing with rendering, is that you can certainly 'tweak' things afterwards (although depending on the length of the render, it may be a less palatable idea!) rather than painting, where it would mean starting over from scratch.  I create characters for a gaming friend, and I hear a lot of, "No, that's not quite it... maybe less of that... more of this... no, wait, go back a few..." so I'm certainly willing to listen. 

    Art is tricky; a lot of what we immediately respond to is visceral, and sometimes it is difficult to parse out exactly what it is we do or do not like about an image, and then express it in comprehensible and meaningful ways to someone who may not want to hear it :-)  With so much of the reaction being personal preference, and styles being so wonderfully, vastly different, it is sometimes hard to know when to speak and when to stay silent.  I think most people err on the side of silence...

  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634

    LOL about the children, I don't have that affliction. I do have a GTX 1080ti so most renders are pretty quick these days. My sunset Stork image took 5.41 mins at a very high quality setting. I think the Bittern image took about an hour.

    I agree.

     

    For me I just make what I like not worrying what others will think, I recently saw a dA page that removes images if it doesn't get any comments. Certainly not doing things for the right reasons. I think that is the key to enjoyment, doing for yourself and not a pat on the back. It is also why I don't judge others for what they make, it's a personal choice. 

  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634

    Made for Ken's yearly bird rendering contest over on Hivewire. 

    DS/Iray HDRI Added mist with Photoshop

    Featuring the Red Breasted Goose who are having a hard time like many bird populations around the world. Most species in the UK have drop more than 50% since the 70's I think Springwatch said. I have slept since so don't quote me on the that. :) But I know many have dropped even lower.
    I used

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  • Carola OCarola O Posts: 3,818

    It look beautiful Szark! Looks real lifelike too, I can almost hear the noise from them

  • AJ2112AJ2112 Posts: 1,416
    edited July 2019

    Fantastic render Pete, your renders always amaze me smiley

    Post edited by AJ2112 on
  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634
    Carola O said:

    It look beautiful Szark! Looks real lifelike too, I can almost hear the noise from them

    Thank you Carola

    AJ2112 said:

    Fantastic render Pete, your renders always amaze me smiley

    Thanks AJ

    +1

    +1 smiley

  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634
    edited October 2020

    Been a while but I am back on the horse, well in this case a deer. I wanted to what SBH was like for fur, oh what a rabbit hole I went down. It reminded me of the old days when I would send hours, 5, 3, 2.30 am bedtime to figure out why something wasn't working like I thought it should. Not saying I know how it should work just I had this illusion of PBR being PBR. Anyhoo this is how it started on another thread

    Szark said:

    Taken me long enough to get around using the Strand based Hair. No issue with using it having played with Garibaldi some years ago,

    However it is the shader that is casing me issues. Can some kind soul help me get this figured out?

    First image of the light coat has no hair, just maps. The darker one has hair and has the same texture maps as the first. I have spent some considerable hours already trying to get my head around this. I even tried a lightened coat map to see it that was the issue and it wasn't. 

     

    PS I am not bothered with the quality of the hair as that will be redone properly. If I can't figure out the shader then no point in bothering with new hair.

    This was the next post I made on the same thread

    Szark said:

    Anyhoo yes had to lighten and saturate, to keep some colour info (Ctrl + U in Photoshop). The root map I used the same in all slots same for the Tip which is a very very light map, a lot lighter that you think.

     

    I found this nugget of info that confirmed I was on the right track but not completely. I find it amazing how this post was ignored and yet so helpful, thx @Kerwin

    https://www.daz3d.com/forums/discussion/326996/dforce-hair-as-well-as-strand-based-hair-and-the-strand-based-hair-editor-in-public-beta/p22

    I still can't figure out how to get the fur texture to match the dog's texture using the "Iray Blended Dual Lobe Hair Shader".  It seems to always come out too dark. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    When comparing a painted texture to generated hairs/fibers, it's best to remember that that realistic fibers both transmit and reflect color in addition to specularity.   Since hairs/fibers overlay and combine to obstruct transmitted light that moves through the fibers as well as bounce off.   When several fibers pile together, they will make a darker color because they will block more light moving through them.   Think about what happens if you pile several layers of lightly shaded glass on top of each other--the appearance will become progressively darker with each pane of glass piled on top of the other.  Also, the skin of animals (when their fur is shaved off or molted) is not always the same color as the fur, often a lighter color (though polar bears have black skin under their white fur,)   The setting in the iray shader set the propertes of an "average hair" at a paticular position which will be cloned with varation and piled with other hairs.  To get the right color, I would lighten the animal's skin color and then work with a lighter texture for the transmitted color of the hairs which will combine to form darker clusters of hair.   

    When starting with a 2d color map for a non-fiber model, I usually take the base 2D textures, blur them and then lighten them to serve as guide colors for the tansmission and reflection of the hairs in the hair shading node.  I'll make the underlying skin a lighter and de-saturated version of the fur colors as a starting point.   It takes some experimentation to get the right mix of settings to get the right final colors, but the results will usually become more realistic.   You may also need to fiddle with the thickness of hairs to see the right level of light transmission al the edges of the model.

    HTH,

    -K

    All in all it is a huge amount of work to get it to this stage. Bear in mind that I got Garibaldi when it first came out so this new incarnation was like putting on a pair of comfy shoes. I used for Stand Based hairs, one for the body, ears, belly and neck. Made greyscale control maps to control fur length and where the clumping happens more. 3 full 8 hours days to get it here.

     

    I did mess with the base coat texture map and lightened where to fur would go. Any exposed areas like the muzzle and inner ears had to be masked so they retained to original saturation and darkness.

    I only went for 35 hairs per CM for the body. Didn't do much combing just the curve and attract functions.

    As for the shader once you get the hair right then the gloss settings work better. I have GTX 1080 ti and I can preview that amount of hair whilst fiddlings with the shader. If need I can screen grab my settings.

     

    Hope that helps

    The pics below Base (no hair), Hair (too much), Hair again too much but better colour and lastly where I got up to yesterday with less hair 30 hairs per CM (cm I think as that is DS units) and better groomed with some controls maps for which I have refined more.

    As for some hair settings. Segment I put at 0.50 (1.0 default). To me that helped to smooth out the hairs. Hear is what also might me worth considering for lilweep

    Ive never had my pc crash from SBH but had issue where Daz would crash on saving if i had a very very dense SBH in scene, and cases where SBH would crash Daz when moving between the tabs of the SBH editor (that hasnt happened to me for a long time now, so maybe they fixed this).

    Im sure the most important thing is the number of hair strands, segment length, and the tesselation or w/e (number of sides per strand) - i think default is two, but you can increase this.

    Dave230 said:

    I skimmed through the comments, but I couldn't find what I was looking for, but, where can I find a list of strand hair parameters that specifically increase GPU memory usage?  I had to reboot my computer a couple times because the memory maxxed out, and my keyboard locked up.  I would really like to separate all parameters that increase memory usage, and the ones that don't.  Maybe Daz could color those parameters bright red, as in "danger, these will crash your computer". :)

    i was having this issue with computer locking up during rendering, and i solved it by 1) changing render settings to only use GPU and 2) adding more Sys RA

    Adjust tesselation in the Parameters pane when the SBH is selected. The other are in the SBH plug-in itself

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    Post edited by Szark on
  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634
    edited October 2020

    Here are my surface settings. As you can see I totally relied on getting the maps right and just fiddled with the value settings once I got the maps right.

    Here is the progression of getting the maps right. Sample was interesting as no way did it look like a red deer so the first thing was to adjust the hue and saturation, That took a while to get right. From that I made the root and tip color maps. Yes more lighter than you think. Every time I lightened it I had to increase the colour saturation. Best done Ctrl+U in Photoshop. Just something to be aware of.

     

    I ended up using the dark diffuse map on the deer under the fur. To me it didn't make much difference and it helped with the exposed parts like the nose etc.

     

    Yes I made the legs more grey, used a grey paint brush ona new layer, painted the grey, Gaussian Blurr and then set the layer to Saturation. Then you get the detail. I m being doing this sort of manipuation for years btw.

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    Post edited by Szark on
  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634
    edited October 2020

    Ok next are the Hair control maps. Apart for the masks, which you can do inside the Hair paint room. I made loads and some I made in Photoshop.These are the ones I want to  show. 

     

    First how to control hair length, Black is high, white is low. Don't ask I have no idea. 

     

    Second map is what I controlled the clumping with in combination with the first map. (I will post later which slot I put what map when the render is done)

    For both sets of Clumping settings I put the second (white background) map in the first 2 slots (Strength and Bias)and then other map in the last slot (Density).

    For the Tweak Tab (Room) I put the first map (Black background) in the Reduce and Random Length map slots. I cranked up the reduce length to over 3.00 to get a good result. 

    1_Coat [Coat Hair Density 2A].png
    1024 x 1024 - 297K
    1_Coat [Coat Hair Density Clump best].png
    1024 x 1024 - 252K
    Post edited by Szark on
  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,634

    For the final result I made 5 separate SBH's. 1 for the Coat, Belly, Neck, Outer Ears, Inner Ears. That way I could control things better. Not much overhead. I managed with Instancing the trees and plants I get it under 11GB of Vram. I dear say if I reduced the map sizes I could get that down more. Tomorrow I will remove the Hair and see what vram usage drops by.

    Red Deer Final.jpg
    2000 x 851 - 1M
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