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Which part and what places did you check?
Did you order the RAM yet? You should get some Micron E-die if you can. They'll overclock to 3600 no problem (optimal speed for Ryzen) even with 64GB and they're usually way cheaper than other brands while being really good quality. Some good micron e-dies are Ballistix Sport LT (or AT) (3000 or 3200). You may need to go to 3200 to overclock 64GB to 3600. Get CL16 or lower.
The 1660 - I'm sure it would have been in stock if I'd searched but I am content to wait.
Yes, I have ordered - but I wasn't intending to try overclocking anything, so not the end of the world.
3200 Mhz RAM is the sweet spot for Ryzen 3000. I've seen no reports of anyone having issues getting a qualified kit to run at 3200. Fasterr than that and there have been reports of issues. Beyond, IIRC, 3600 it requires tweaking some Ryzen clock settings to not have faster memory actually perform worse than slower. Considering how expensive RAM gets above 3200 I see no point in chasing the higher speeds for very minimal performance gains.
Given that I just bought a 1x16GB RAM stick for $50 and the cheapest 1x32GB RAM I could find was $160 dollars I decided to max at at 64GB RAM instead of 128GB RAM. There is also a big chance that ever more RAM on GPU cards and other types of fast storage like Optane Memory make paying a 300%+ premium in price for 1x32GB RAM sticks risky. Oops, my ratios for the math is backwards the price premium for the 1x16GB vs the 1x32GB RAM sticks I found is 50%+ not 300%+.
I have the 750D case, just not the airflow edition. The mesh on top is a magnetic filter that can be removed to clean. The ports on mine are not on a slope so they shouldn't collect dust. The hardest part of the build with the case was finding out how to remove one of the external bay covers. There are tabs inside the case you have to squeeze to get it off. It took 45 minutes of youtube videos to find it. The case is very nice in my opinion. Also, If you plan to use an M2 ssd, My case had an installed stand off with a pin, as oposed to a screw hole, where the securing screw for the ssd would go. You might want to replace it with a normal stand off before installing the motherboard.
Gus
Thanks, that's useful stuff. I haven't ordered an optical drive at all for now - I will see if Adobe CS6 lets me copy the files from the DVD to a flash drive for instalaltion, if it will I can wait to get an external drive. I did get am M2 so that will need checking.
My parts have fianlly arrived (the 1660 was out of stock at order tiem, and missed its first restock date). Most things look clear but the motherboard manual isn't entirely clear on its power connections - the big one, of course, but then it has two side-by-side 12V inputs, with different pin-counts, and doesn't say much about them; given the lack of specifics I assuem both are needed but my vague recollection from last time is that there was an either/or - any idea which is right?
The side by side 12 pins should be the MB power supply and will be keyed so you can't mess it up. they usually is also a separate somewhat large 8 pin connection that is called the ATX or ATX_12V but your power supply wire connector for those pins might be labeled as CPU but what that's for is CPU power supplement.
I've also got my PC parts and build it out already except the CPU, GPU, and 2TB M.2 NVMe SSD have yet to be bought. The ease with which I could build it all together and quality compared to 2003 is impressively improved in every respect except attaching the computer case front panel to the front panel pins on the motherboard. Tiny writing on tiny pin connectors being put on tiny pins in deep shadow in the recesses of a corner of your computer case is as primitive as ever. Despite there being negative and positive pins on the reset switch & power switch they'll both still work & work without harming the MB if you reverse them regarding polarity. If you get the Power LED & HDD LED reverse in polarity though the lights won't work though.
On the Front Panel power wiring at the connectors there is often a tiny raised arrow head and that arrow head is the wire that is positive.
You should be able to find a PDF of your particular motherboard online by using with a search engine too. That's what I did as my motherboard was discounted because it was returned stock from Amazon missing the manual.
This video is useful because the guy explains things that are generically true for all ATX style PC motherboard / case combinations.
Thank you. Fortunately, judging by the docs, most of the plugs on my system are clearly labelled and the pins are labelled in the MB manual.
Some motherboards have multipel CPU power plugs. In your case it looks like an 8pin and a 4 pin. the 3900X should not need that much power unless you're doing something like LN2 overclocking. plug in the 8 pin and see if it posts. Your PSU has 2 ATX12V connectors included. If the motherboard won't post with just the 8 pin plugged in you can plug in the second 8 pin to the 4 pin connector (the 8 pin is just 2 4pin connectors side by side).
Thanks, yes I was noticing earlier that there was a second 8 pin 12V cable that coudl be split in two (but I wasn't sure the latches matched between the 8 and 4 pin sockets on the MB). Presuambly a case for trying a CPU-heavy 3delight render as early as possible to make sure the power really is adequate.
I really doubt you'll need more than the current from the 8 pin for a 3900X that isn't overclocked. I've checked and there are X570 board with just a single 8 pin.
OK, I'll certaily try it that way and see how it goes.
Sabotaged at the first step - the PSU has a self-test so I self-tested it and got just a faint buzz and a hot smell, so I put everything away. Gave it another go before sending of a complaint and in fact it did work - it's just that the kettle lead isn't a very positive fit. I will try it with a different lead tomorrow, in the hope it's the plug and not the socket on the PSU, but it's obviously a non-starter if it can lose its connection that easily.
One thing I did find, there is very little clearance between the back of the PSU and the first of the two HD cages. I think I could take two of the caddies out and thread the leads in through the side of the cage and out the back, though I'd want to put a bit of tape over the back edge as it's a little sharp - that would allow oen HD at the top of the rear cage and the other two in the front cage. The alternative would be to take the rear cage right out and either put it n top of the front, which might restrict airflow, or take it out completely and put all three HDs in the front cage. I'm a bit reluctant to stack all three cheek-by-jowl, I usually try to leav an empty bay between each pair, but how much of an issue would stacking them together be - they would be next to the lower intake fan, for what that is worth.
Bummer. I've never had a PS act up but I did fry HDDs once. There really is a limit to to how hot you can let them get. Also fried an Asus EP121 (expensive piece of junk - Surfaces are much better).
I can't test my computer components til January when I get my CPU but because of Christmas the return allowance is extended to January 31st for everything ordered on November 1st or later on Amazon to allow that much of what is being bought are presents. So remember, all you buy on Amazon during Holidays has extended return window so you can test more thoroughly.
Those modular cables can be a bit tricky. It should snap or click into place. As to the HDD's, unless you plan to run something like a NAs there really isn't much reason to not stack them close together. A single user is unlikely to keep 2, or 3. drives spun up for very long at a time. If you're really concerned I'd pull the back cage to get more room for cables. Install 2 HDD's in the front cage and the third in the bottom of the top cage. That would still leave a spot for a DVD bruner if you want one.
It was the "kettle lead2, the link from maisn to the PSU, that was sparky - an alternative ddi work, but of course for the UPS it needs to use one of the special cables with a female kettle lead plug (fortunately the oen from this PC seemed to work when I tested this morning).
I'lll see how it goes feeding the cables through the cage, with only one of the trays inplace, but yes - if not one of the 5.25 drive bays would work. I can always go with stacked for now and change later (not sure if there would need to be an adaptor to fit the HD there without checking). Thanks.
If you want a HDD in a 5 1/2" cage then just use one screw if the cage doesn't have a sled for HDD's. If you will keep the case stationary then that should be more than enough, I have seen SSD just allowed to sit on top of the PSU shroud.
Here's the internals of my 750D. Built 1 month ago with similar spec but I went Intel. This is before I installed the data drives. Kept both bays as I have 4 data drives in use. Backup drives are in a USB3 JDOB and I invested about £15 in a USB optical drive as that doesn't see enough action to warrant the internal space.
This is the second PC built in this model of case and I was much relieved to find that it was still available as my last one was built 6 years ago.
If you're looking for a 5.25" hard drive bay I can recommend the Icybox IB-176SSK-B Trayless Mobile Rack. Used two of them in the past. This one has a power button so you can power it down when a drive is inserted but not in use.
Very neat. I've just finished a basic build (not added the data drives from the old machine, and I want to test without the 208)ti before adding that) but not yet tried to boot it.
Just found this thread so will keep tabs on progress. Good luck.
Quick story, I'm in the UK and my best friend moved to the USA to work in tech in LA (this is many years ago). I was having an issue with one of my first builds and couldn't get past POST. Rang my friend and he told me to put the phone next to the PC and turn it on. He listened and diagnosed a memory fault from the POST beeps. No looking it up just knew them in his head. I aspire to that level still :)
That's impressive. These new desktops / components in modern computers are so organized & neat. I am building a desktop too but I think next fall I will also built a tiny PC (I think they are called HPC) to use as a set top playback box instead of an Android TV box. 1st I have to copy all my DVDs to a 5TB USB drive. I've actually seen a 4TB SSD drive on Amazon but they are still too expensive for me. That sort of small internal portability would be idea to hold a blueray / dvd collection. Unfortunately I've found out that you really can't rip a Blueray with menu/languages and all like you can a DVD so that will affect my buying choices in the future. I think I will stick with all DVDs in the future until you can't get them anymore.
You can certainly rip Blue Rays.
I use the MakeMKV beta, free for 30 days but I don't need it that option and can always download the latest beta for another free trial, to rip the blue ray. That results in a 20 to 30 gb file. So I use Handbrake to compress the MKV file.
Yep, the days of internal spaghetti are a thing of the past for me.
p.s check your messages ;)
Well, that ddi not go well. It started, and took me into BIOS set up, but the keyboard seems tog et stuck on auto-repeat at the drop of a hat (I pressed the down arrow and it kept cycling through all of the options; when I did get into another location it had the menu for what to do on power restore open and pressing return didn't seem to seelct the option and let me go on to the next; pressing Esc opened the do youw ant to save dialogue and immediately closed it, repeatedly) and mouse cursor froze. I tried just keyboard and just mouse without any change. Also, on one of the occasions I did manage to navigate a little way the M.2 drive is not showing up. Any thoughts? Could the M.2 (or even the input issues) be down to actually needing the extra 12V connector?
Do you get any beeps on POST, other than the expected one beep? If not then all the main things plugged into the motherboard, memory etc, should be working OK. You are getting video so at least that's working. Do you have both graphics cards plugged in?
The M2 will need setting up in the BIOS once you get access. At this stage it might be worth removing it until you get reliable access to the BIOS.
At this point I would only have the graphics card, memory and a keyboard attached to make sure it posted to the BIOS and I could navigate. Then add from there.
I think the M.2, at least on my motherboard, runs off the main 24 pin (or 20 pin + 4 pin on my power supply) connector. My RAM and most of the MB components do as well. On my power supply it has a 20 pin + 4 pin motherboard power, 1 8 pin ATX+12 (labeled as CPU though), 2 VGA 8 pin power in series, 2 SATA power cables with 2 sata power connectors each in series and that's it.
Most likely cause of your trouble is the SSD isn't seated properly. On mine, also Gigabyte but only one M.2 NVMe slot, one must take out a screw, seat the SSD, and then fasten the SSD into place with the screw. I have no heat sink for my SSD like your MB has though.
Or you can just go to the forums here where the developer posts updated keys on a regular basis :)
https://www.makemkv.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1053
That sounds like it is an issue with the keyboard itself.
Just to be safe, unseat and reseat everything, RAM, GPU, 24 pin, 8 pin, the other power connectors.
Try plugging in the keyboard to a different USB port. If that doesn't work try a different keyboard if you have one. If you know the keyboard works and changing USB's doesn't help it is almost certainly a faulty mobo or CPU. figuring out which one could be a PITA. I'd pull the CPU from the socket and check for any bent or broken pins.
The 24 pin supplies power through the motherboard to everything but the CPU. the 8 pin connector is for the CPU.