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No speaker, but it has four LEDs that light for issues and they are al off when the BIOS opens. Only the 1660 is in at the moment. I'll try pulling ther M.2 for now, and I can always try the other slot.
Yes, removing the M.2 seems sensible.
I don't have a spare USB keyboard, but I did get the mouse issue with no keyboard at all (and the keyboard issue with no mouse) so, given that they are fine on their usual system, it seems unlikely to be them - and Idid try differrent ports (on the first run I used the case ports, but I've unplugged them now). Pulling the CPU looks scary, judging by the way the guide I saw was wiggling the heat sink side-to-side to free the AMD thermal pad - and of course I don't currently have any thermal compound to reseat it (well, I doubt what I have is usable after ten years) so I will try the other options first.
Thank you for the suggestions.
When you installed the CPU did it just drop into the socket? LGA, like the Ryzen desktop CPU, chips are zero insertion force. Once properly placed it should fall into place with either no help or the barest wiggling.
Getting the cooler off is easy when the paste is fresh. Once it cures it can be quite tricky. Don't use the 10 old stuff. It might be good but the compsoition of the stuff has improved in that time.
Yes, it dropped in cleanly - I was referring to the "How to remove a Wraith cooler" instructions I found on-line, which involved gently twisting the cooler from side to side -which looked like a good way to shear off a pin or more and kill both CPU and MB..
Yeah, I wasn't going to risk it, even for a test.
:( There really isn't much left but a bad CPU. A bent pin can be fixed sometimes. Any thing else is pretty much going to call for an RMA.
Not sure if this is the same MOBO you ended up getting but this link from Linus Tech Tips forum indicates a user having some peripheral issues on one:
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1100082-gigabyte-x570-aorus-pro-wifi-rev-10-buggy-bios-help/
I would look at the current BIOS ver available from Gigabyte's website for that board and download it onto a USB and try to boot into the flash utility directly and update it. Often you cannot update to the latest without cycling through a few first as noted on the manufacturers site.
Another link for different version board from same vendor paired with 3900x:
http://forum.gigabyte.us/thread/7622/x570-aorus-elite-double-press
One thing a user in the first link mentioned was to boot to thumbdrive/installation media that contains windows image directly first and install windows then he was able to use bios without issues on reboot...not sure how valid that is. I think it just needs to be updated with Q-flash a few times.
I haven't yet tried the reseating of the other components, was feeling a bit tired this morning after being on late last night.
Those do sound very like my issues, including on at least one occasion the mouse going sideways when I was moving it down. Thanks, I will do soem more digging with this and see if it's true that Windows will install and work. Would still leave the M.2 mystery, however.
I missed the M.2 issue. I scrolled back up and see that it is not showing up. I looked at the manual for x570 Aorus pro wifi and it shows an m.2 connector on the front and back of that board. I assume you are connecting to the front of the board? There is only one way the 2280 form factor will slot into the connector on the board so as long as that is seated good the only other thing I can think of is RAM causing the instability. I built a Ryzen machine 3 weeks ago and it took about hour and half to finally get my bios stable. I did not experience the same issues you are with the mouse and keyboard but I could not even see the bios splash screen and my keyboard and mouse would often not power on or power cycle when the screen would hit preventing me from entering bios. This was all because of my RAM which when I could get into bios ocassionally after many many power cycles had no XMP profile recognized which forced me to input my speed manually. Once I finally had my RAM speed locked in everything worked as expected with BIOS on reboots and within bios. I also updated my mobo several times to the latest version. If the m.2 is on the slot on the back of the board, if this is the correct manual, then try it on the front or vicea versa.
Yes, it's using the slot at the back (nearest the CPU). I intend to try to verify the BIOS issue is as described above, then I will try moving the M.2 if that doesn't also fix its issue.
Until you get the peripheral issue resolved don't worry about the m.2.
Once the bios is working it will probably resolve as well.
Well, pressing Del to eliberately enter the BIOS does indeed fix the key/mouse issue - which is a weird bug to have for what sems a fair while (the MB has BIOS F3, they are several iterations into F4 by the look of it. Having confirmed that I reseated the M.2 and it is now being seen, so not sure what was wrong the first ime (there's not a lot of room for play, though I mightr have applied some sideways pressure if there was when fitting the heat sink - it has a very sticky coating. Oddly the RAM is listed as Corsair Vengeance 2600, though with the XMP profile enabled it is now running at 3200. CPU is at about 40 degrees on boot, but cools to 34-5 once it's been sitting in the BIOS for a few minutes - as I recall the initial boot does tend to be warmer as it is running full pelt until told not to.
So, try installing Windows next or fit the 2080Ti so all the new hardware is in and (hopefully) working.
Thats good to hear! Always nice when it finally "works". The xmp just overclocks the RAM and is part of the RAM sticks not the mobo BIOS so it is what Corsair has setup for your kit. I think the temps are good, mine does the same (2700x) and that is with a Noctua cooler (the stock wraith prism coolers are very good).
Do not install windows until all the HW is installed. Windows will give you problems if you change too much HW after installation.
My 2700 idles around 32C so 34 is a perfectly fine idle temp.
Glad you got it going. I would make sure the systems boots with the new graphics card before installing windows. Been quiet as I run Intel and a lot of the talk was about the CPU.
OK, that looks like a conclusive vote for HW first so that's what I'll do - thanks.
Well, installing the 2080Ti was fun as I hadn't put a power cord in initially - ended up dislodging half of the case connectors and had to fiddle around putting them back in. However, it survived, booted, and let me install Windows. Formatting the HD then took most of a day, folowed by updating the BIOS. When I went into the BIOS to reconfigure it the temp loked a little high, even allowing that it had been sitting on all day - about 40C, though it dropped back to 38, and similar for the environment. Also, the CPU fan kept speeding up and sloowing down. I installed the Gigabyte system monitor and the temperature of the CPU at idle varies between 30C and 50C, which seems extreme. I tried a render of the Daz House cat - the GPU handled it fine, stayed around 45C I think, but a CPU render took the temp up to hovvering on 80 after just 68s plus initialisation. My suspicion would be that the heatsink/thermal pad are not quite making contact proeprly in one place, the fluctuations at idle depend on which core is currently handling the load for such activity as is happening - does that sound plausible? In which case I suppose it's back to order some thermal compund and try reseating it (last time it took me about three attempts to get the heat sink on correctly, I was hoping this oen would be easier).
Still, 68s for a render of the Daz House Cat on the CPU - this system chokes on the attempt. The GPU took about 11s.
Glad to hear that you've finally managed to get your new system up and running, Richard.
I've not had an AMD CPU for many years, but I think you are right to be concerned with a temperature of 80C. For the price of some thermal compound and some fiddling around with the heatsink compared with potential damage to the CPU, it's definitely a good idea reseat it.
I've had to replace the AIO cooler on my pc twice over the past 5 years. I found this kit invaluable:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N6U7GDJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You might be able to put your own equivalent together cheaper, but for me the convenience was worth the price.
Yes, I was going to ask about the best way to clean - I do have some industrial spirits in a cupboard, from when I used non-disposable insulin syringes, but I've no idea if that would work on the CPU and heatsink.
Removing thermal past doesn'trequire special chemicals. Isopropyl Alchol is what is in those removers. Try to get 99% IPA or at least as higha s you can. Rubbing alcohol is 70% and will do the job but I've seen reports that it can be problematic. You also need a lint free cloth.
Jumping to 50C at idle is an issue. The usual issue when the cooler doesn't make proper contact is how it was tightened down. You need to tighten the crews diagonally acros from each other and only a turn or half turn at a time.
Yeah, regular old rubbing alcohol from the drug store works, it may take a few passes though. Think of screwing down the cooler like screwing a new wheel onto a car, except a few less lugs :P
It doesn't have a screw, using the AMD Wraith stock cooler it has a hook on one side and a hook-and-lever on the other - postion with the lever up and the non-lever side hooked, then once in place push lever down to lock.
I just ran RayDAnt's benchmark scene cpu only and few minutes in it was at 72 with a Noctua cooler (2700x) and all core OC to 4GHz. It is certainly possible something is off with the thermal application but rendering a scene would certainly put it to the test even with good application. The wraith is an excellent cooler but at 100% utilization while rendering it is likely to get up there.
Just saw this video as well indicating, at least from this user, that the 3000 series are on the hot side:
Rendering in iray on my ryzen got it even hotter than cinebench lol. 72 is not really that hot, on stock I saw high 90's(2600x) when it dropped to cpu which scared me and got me to shell out for a noctua. Since I put my noctua in, hottest I have seen is around 75.
I forgot you got the R7. Yeah the Prism has the old AMD mounting scheme. They suck and were very prone to not getting equal mounting pressure. It's supposed to guarantee equal pressure but...
Before i'd go to the trouble of unmounting that I'd run a stress test on the CPU to see what uit hits under a sustained load. Anything under 90C is ok, under 80C is better but those CPU's have a lot of cores running at pretty high clocks.
If you do reseat and the pronlem persists I'd look into a low end air cooler like the hyper 212.
True, but that's 70ish rather than hitting 80 in a minute,
OK, I'll try a stress test - it will throttle beore doing any harm? Still, I am inclined to think some kind of action is required - if nothing else, the CPU fan firing up and then slowing back down when the idle tempt jumps is irritating and stress-inducing.
Yeah, it should downvolt itself once it starts heating up. The better the cooling, the better ryzen will perform because it will not be cutting it's volts so much.
Well ... for what it's worth, according to CoreTemp, my 3900X basically has a low of 35C when it's been on a while, doing nothing more than browsing. Doing CPU renders, it almost immediately goes up to (for now) a max of 82C when rendering, but hasn't gone above that. Once the render is over, it drops to around 45C within about a minute, and back down to idle temperatures in another minute or so. I did some poking around online, and from what I can tell, a fair number of people are reporting that sort of temperature range. (It has both CPU liquid cooling, GPU liquid cooling, and fans, so ... honestly a bit surprised that those temperature ranges aren't lower. I mean, they're more or less acceptable, from what I can tell from researching. I guess my expectations were set by my old i7 which had CPU liquid cooling, fans, and ran in the 30-70C range.)
I suspect doing CPU renders in the summer will be An Adventure.
Running DAZ Studio iRay CPU renders on my old HP 8460P Elitebook with i5 2nd gen CPU broke that CPU/motherboard combination as soon as I turned off power and let it cool off for a couple of days. By then I have left it turned on, on my desk non-stop for almost 2 years and ran a lot of renders, some renders being allowed to run as long as 4 days.
The temp limit for Ryzen is 100C. Ryzen will down clock if it get to 100C. You really shouldn't run a system full time at temps at 90C or higher but short term peaks hitting 90 or 95C is acceptable.
Yes, I'd be fairly annoyed by the ramping up and down assuming you can hear it.
I know from my mere Ryzen 3 when I first got my computer the fan cable had come off and as it hits 95°C it powers down, I witnessed it while wondering why it was happening before discovering the unplugged cable.
Long term would obviously be bad but good to know a safety is inbuilt.
OK, it probably won't be today but I will do a longer render and see what it does - though I certainly do hear the fan, even at idle, so I'm inclined to try to improve it; on the other hand, it took about three attempts to get the heat sink working well on this PC when I built it so realistic expectations are required.