Let’s Make Clothing! Tutorial thread. Shoes too!
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You can't tell the cape to ignore unknown morphs, but for known morphs you can use the Property Editor to create a blank morph with the name of the morph and that wills top DS from creating an auto morph.
Hmmm.... I'll have to check that out. I got the dup id issue fixed in the Bruno and Gen3 fit morphs I made but I'm seeing that I've made enough changes in the default shape of the cape that I'll still have to send them all to ZBrush for some smoothing and what not and resave them out anyway. Oh well. At least I was happy to see the dup id issue cleared out.
It's all coming together slowly but surely. I figure once I get this all done I'll keep this rigging for other capes I'll make, save me some nerves! lol
HU - tutorial sale day
including:
http://www.daz3d.com/utilities-resources/tutorials/advanced-rigging-in-daz-studio-4-pro *
http://www.daz3d.com/utilities-resources/tutorials/classic-bikini
http://www.daz3d.com/utilities-resources/tutorials/rigging-original-figures-in-ds4-pro *
http://www.daz3d.com/utilities-resources/tutorials/genesis-starter-kit
* these I own and do also recommend.
Also still free: http://www.daz3d.com/utilities-resources/tutorials/shader-mixer-tutorial-i
Taking a break from the cape for now (coming along, just a few more morphs to add and some tweaks and it's finally done, I think! LOL ) but now I wanted to improve the body suit. It was mentioned that Concentric Circles would be best for the pec/breast area of the suit. For the life of me I can't figure out how to do that esp if I want to add these to the already created body suit I made.
Are there tutorials I can study?
If one cuts out a set of squares, adds smoothing, that usually makes a circle type area. Selecting the circle's lines, extracting more mesh inwards ... one way to do this in Hexagon at least. The last space can be filled using the "close hole" tool.
Hmmm..... that's an idea. Just afraid that Hex will crash out on me as it always does. Really wish DAZ would make it a 64 bit app and improve a few more of the tools, like the sculpting tools!
Created successfully my first ERC morph for the SuperCape using the information provided by DaremoK3
Of course I had no idea what the settings were to "overwrite" the internal auto generated morphs but through trial and error (allot of errors and cussing lol) I got it... now if I can just get the rest of the Bruno morphs done I can move on to the various generations of DAZ supported morphs. That should be fun! lol
Also added in 3 new corrective morphs (ArmsUP, ArmUp-Right and ArmUp-Left) for when the arms are .... UP! First time I used the Morph tool in ZBrush to actually make a set of morphs using symmetry. Worked out pretty good!
Of course I had no idea what the settings were to "overwrite" the internal auto generated morphs but through trial and error (allot of errors and cussing lol) I got it... now if I can just get the rest of the Bruno morphs done I can move on to the various generations of DAZ supported morphs. That should be fun! lol
Also added in 3 new corrective morphs (ArmsUP, ArmUp-Right and ArmUp-Left) for when the arms are .... UP! First time I used the Morph tool in ZBrush to actually make a set of morphs using symmetry. Worked out pretty good!
Looking good! :-)
Thanks hon. Got Bruno Basic done and I got Bruno Chunky 01 and 02 done before leaving for the gym. Those two are my largest morphs and they came out really well. I love those hidden morphs, it's so much more elegant!
An opportunity has arisen to "let's start at the beginning" for "how to make clothing".
A free .obj outfit has been offered to the community with a request for feedback ... so :-)
http://www.daz3d.com/forums/discussion/21257/ by mrburna813
{Bejaymac also explains very nicely how to make a clothing item from MD}
1. For clothing a plain .obj file "as is" is a prop item.
This means after importing the item to the figure, parent it to the appropriate body section.
2. For a 2 piece outfit as shown, this means that the legs cannot be moved.
3. So let's turn this .obj into clothing.
Having downloaded the .obj file which is to fit Genesis basic female, let's see what happens.
1st though, let's check it in our popular 3D modeler, Hexagon using the Poser settings of 0.41 cm on import.
Import in a Genesis dummy, as the clothing item is formed and the image says for Genesis female, that's what I've imported.
1. Signs are for "poke through" exist in the stomach area and on the hips. A little expansion there is an idea.
2. Be careful with such 'sharp' areas as was done for the wrinkles. Easy for the mesh to break apart when posed.
3. Importing the downloaded .obj file into D/S using the Poser settings which is commonly done, the outfit loads super huge and nowhere near Genesis. This is not acceptable for making clothing "as is". Rather than repeated attempts to find the correct size import, I go to next step.
4. From back in Hexagon, export out a new .obj which is fitting on the Genesis in the default loading position.
Next batch.
and some more pictures ...
And some more. This time there are numbers on the pics.
And the last set for this minitut. I hope mrburna813 that you've found something useful ... and you and others who are noobies are quite welcome to "enter my parlour" and ask your questions.
Terminology: Legacy rigging => conforming clothing which is "not" the Genesis type.
Props of any kind don't require 'rigging' of any type but must needs be confined to a small area of the body, such as a bracelet, ring, etc. might be.
Once an .obj is imported into D/S "landing on Genesis" in the default position, the colours and materials assigned, it can then be saved out as either a clothing figure item or a prop file.
For sharing, one more commonly collects all the files that were created for making the item packaged up correctly so they will work in anybody's program. It is essential that created prop/figure files be created to save into the correct folder structure in the first place.
All said and done, I do wish to say that the crotch area in those slacks is one of the best I've seen offered so far ... thank you.
{n.b. note for myself ... learn how to count.}
Glad your taking this on. Read the other thread and the conversation at times just seemed a little tense and it really shouldn't lead to that sort of tone.
Thank you. It can be rather daunting at times, there's so much to learn and one has to develop the workflow that works for themselves as well as others for making shares.
Patience:
I know it seems a little confusing, but as a modeler, and a user of MD2, I can shed a little light on the subject. I wrote a tutorial regarding this with MD2 a while back in the previous forums.
Most (if not all) 3D software can read those UV's. It is actually technique, and not some sort of mistake. It is un-bounded tiling UV's, and one way you can retain tiling schemes within the OBJ UV's. This is apparent in the waistband (and, on purpose).
The original author tiled the texture used on the clothing to those sizes, and exported the mesh with those tiling attributes intact. They could have selected the option to create the UV's within the normal UV bounds, but would have lost all tiling information.
You explained well how to create an in-bound UV set from those out-of-bounds UV set. Great tut. Keep up the good work.
I use a similar work-flow to Bejaymac's, but you have shown a thorough example for people to follow as well.
I've seen a lot of mesh come into Hexagon with the uvmap "off the paper" and I know that it was not that way in the previous programs ... so thank you for the explanation as to why that is happening. Obviously it does not read "un-bounded" uvmapping.
Thank you. I hope it helps other beginners also in "how to use" of the free items they find. As I'm sure you're aware also, many freeware items do require some "tlc" before being usable.
I've just tested that outfit and apart from the UV's, which I redid, and the ruck at the back of the top, it works fine!!!
Why do people have to be so mean to beginners? Everyone has to start somewhere!
I've added to the original thread.
Nobody's really trying to be mean Wilmap. If nobody said anything to anybody about anything nobody would learn anything and nothing would be accomplished. You provide support for your items. If you gave away an .obj and said, "here, click button and it makes clothes" I'm sure you have some idea as to how many questions would be presented. So several people have presented ways in which they would have worked to make the item usable. And hopefully mrburna813 finds the path for how they wish to turn their beautiful objects into clothing pieces.
For some the UVs were just fine and didn't require fixing.
Not everybody has MD and knows what settings were used.
I've read your reply in the other thread where you've said you've imported the item at 100% and it worked fine. 100% of what? Okay wild guess the Daz settings. That worked yes. There are a lot of options for import.
Running the transfer utility also requires some knowledge. A figure modeled item was presented. That's not a "beginner will know how to make clothing from" item. Joequick's reply has a beautiful layout of instructions for how to do that. link for post I tested those along with the Daz import settings and there was no poke through, it was the correct size, and so have added to my notes here too.
Just ducking in to ask if you think this would be possible. I'm managing to get hair happening in Blender, but the process involves duplicating an area of the body. I'm wondering if anyone's tried doing just that, then sculpting a garment out of it on a different layer. Save your Blender file to the garment name, delete the other layers and save as an .obj... ?
Then, if I want to Render in DAZ, I can rig here. I'm eventually going to check out Carrara. I like what I've seen can be done there... still I think Blender has a plethora of bells and whistles. Poser does beautiful Renders, but I think it relates back to the renderist more than the renderer.
(Pardon my use of Artistic License (24F508ht1212) to invent the word "renderist.")
As for the mechanical question, I would think it would be a matter of scale on the import end either way.
With garments copying from the body is a bad idea for geometry flow reasons (the body has loops and curves in the limb and joint areas especially designed to bend the lorez model well and you don't necessarily want those in all pants and shirts, or not in the same way). I can't imagine why you'd need to do that with hair either. Pics?
Have I tried modeling using the figure's mesh for clothing and hair; of course. Is it worth the work. Nope.
I found I could get better results just starting with my own mesh in the first place and then also know in doing this as a habit, I don't have to be trying to remember 'which items' I may or not redistribute legally.
It works, but I have to work the bugs out of the extrusion.
Edit: Posted before looking at responses...
So this is heading down a bad path?
Visible irregularities:
Nipples
Navel
Thigh hem
This is not a good method. Nobody can tell you what to do, but you really should dump it and learn to strip model with a mirror modifier instead if you're working on a symmetrical project. This is my advice as a long-term Blender user currently using it to make clothes that I sell commercially.
Strip model?
Where? I wanna see a model strip! :P
Ha ha, Ram. :p
Strip modeling is also called by some other names but basically means starting from one face, extruding it to form a framework of polys, and then filling in that framework to complete the geometry. You can create a half-framework and use a mirror modifier across the X axis and only do half as much work.
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Blender_3D:_Noob_to_Pro/Polygon_by_Polygon_modeling
People also model using primitives: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9jXOx7S32I
The second one also has good basics on extrusion, mirror modifiers and subsurface modifiers. Subsurfing and its equivalents (Blender uses some of the same methods as DAZ Studio's subdivision) are what let people get models with medium to high poly counts but very regular geometry. Regular geometry is good because it tends to render more cleanly (with fewer artifacts) and is easier to UV map without stretching.
Well I kept hearing about this product, finally found it ... was looking in wrong store ... now have it! Yes ... so when I learn how to use it [sometime after I install it], no longer shall the dress fronts be a problem right Sickleyield! Thank you for the time saver :-)
You're very welcome!