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I'm experimenting with some of the Iray presets we get in the starter content.
What's the best way to use the "Fabric - Silk - Blue" preset to convert a 3Delight silk material with a texture map? Just -apply the silk preset, copy the texture map from Base Color to Glossy Color and Top Coat Color, and set those two colour dials from blue to white? I just did that, and at least I get the fabric colours showing properly (which I don't if I only apply the preset). Is there anything else I need to do for a proper silk sheen, or is that it? The colour seems to be OK, but I'm not sure if I'm seeing a proper silky glossiness.
Also, would the same technique work with the "Fabric - Velvet - Red" preset?
Darn it, I do not enough VRAM , so my Iray renders take forever and day.
Back to 3Delight which I still like a lot, so not to bad.
Always useful info here!
Hi!
I am trying to light a scene with 2 mesh lights (spheres). Howver, it seems I have to use ridiculous amounts of Luminance and Luminous Efficacy to get some results, otherwise, the scene is black.
Right now, I`m getting results close to what I want using:
Luminance: 1000000
Luminous Efficacy: 20000
Luminance units: lm
(Which is all very different from the default settings of the emmiter material)
Using an HDRI helps, but I don`t want to be dependant on them, I`d like to learn how they work so I can lit a scene using mesh lights only.
Thanks.
EDIT: Mybe I`m using the wrong ISO, F/Stop and shutter.... A year and a half of photography all flushed and forgoten in mere months. I should have paid more attention -.-
EDIT: Yeah, that was it. It`s all coming back to my head again lol. Adjusting the ISO and speed to appropiate settings did the trick.
That is not unusual. At time, that number may be tiny, for instance on a little LED that just needs a glow effect. You can change to a different scale on the lights. Such as cms instead of meters. Iray actually works in meters while studio works in cms, so that drop... hmmm... it is 4 zeros or 5 or 6? I forgot. Also, you can switch out to watts or another method. For main light, I like going to cms/squared and suddenly something like 500 might be plenty. Otherwise, just keep throwing the zeros on the end of the number. It is not broken... you're doing it right. :)
If you hold down the CTRL key when you apply the shader, you will get a pop up which will give you some options... one of which is whether or not to replace the images in the existing texture. :) Sure beats chasing them down. Since this is a mix of an existing texture image and a shader, it's hard to know the effect of those images. Heck, you might even play around with some of the shiney things... metals, car paints... and using that CTRL method... then undo if you want to try something else, it takes only a couple of seconds and then the preview render time.
So far I haven't been able to aquire half as much with Iray as with 3Dlight so I have a hard time believing in the hype. For instance I miss the ability to use spotlights and pointlight and coloured light and gel lights. Once in an odd while I've managed to get a coloured pointlight - when I have it all enclosed inside of a prop. But that disables me of course to work with transparent backgrounds. Then I want to be able to alter and colour the shadows and to use volumetric fog (OK, saw that there's a prop in the shop today for that, but I'm not sure if I want to spend the money on something I'll hardly use). And even uberlight on the rare occations - even though I seldom deployed that as it made the render times so slow.
The only thing that seems to be better with iray is the ability to get water looking like water and human skin to look more like skin and less like plastic. So the pictures I get using Iray might look more like photos in a magazine but less like art works. The magic is simply not there.
You can still use spotlights and pointlights (although spots are more 'real' than points). Colored light is still possible...it's just not the same settings as 3DL.
For colored light you need to set the color temperature...and if you only want the points or spots you need to use 'Scene only' in the Render options > Environment, otherwise it will add the dome/sun/sky, which will probably blow out the points/spots (and yes you use real world values...lumens/watts/etc) on those instead of 'intensity'.
You can select the spotlight or pointlight in the scene and go to parameters and set the color of the the light.
Yes, we all do different sorts of 'art'. 3DL can be better for some types of art. I'm not sure the excitement some folks are having over Iray, really classifies as 'hype'. They seem to be genuinely happy people who are now able to do the type of art they want to produce.
Okay - I noticed there's something called temperature K - is that what you mean? And what does it really do? I tested it, pulled the lever up and down a but but I couldn't see any difference from my original pic.(I was using it on a default spotlight wich shadows turned on (I always perform the rogue test without shadows to gain some time)
High values = cold
Low values = warm
Thank you Hellboy, very helpful chart!
Those settings (shadows) are meaningless in Iray. The color temp, in Kelvins, is the light color...and it is one way of changing the color. A temperature of between 1000 K and 1800K would give you a red to orange light...perfect for candle/firelight.
Here's a table of temp values and their colors...
http://www.vendian.org/mncharity/dir3/blackbody/
Basically anything you can do a 'light grid'/theatrical spotlight, you can do to an Iray one...
Some experimenting reveals that temperature works with distant lights and with spot- and pointlights if you have it in an enclosed environment.
Is there a way to have green light or deep blue light?
Right. If you want a spotlight or pointlight with a "blue gel", under Parameters for the light, put a blue color in the 'Color' channel. Make sure you turn off the headlamp and set dome mode to scene only. This will turn off the automatic headlamp on the camera, which can interfere and also turn off the default HDR lighting which can easily overpower your lighting.
You don't need them in an enclosed space...just set Scene only.
Just one more thing - where do I find the headlamp? In render settings?
Select the camera and pop over to the parameters pane. :)
Szark is right, but here is also a global under Render Settings General. Set it to never.
Sweet I missed that one. I must use that instead as I keep forgetting about turning the darn thing off.
Well, it doesn't save. :( But at least if you hop between cameras or other views, the thing doesn't turn back on. I'm thinking of creating a scene file with it turned off and you can set Studio to load a scene on open and also to load a scene on new. Once I figure out what I want in this scene, I'll most likely create it and use it and forget the headlamp. :)
That's what I've been thinking, too...but I can never quite firgure out what I want....
Well you can just create a scene with just a camera in. That is an excellent idea and I can then set up the camera facing forward as opposed to the defaulted angle. :)
It's stuff like that, that makes it hard to decide. I'm currently thinking of a 'default Iray' 3Delight scene...one with a shadow catcher floor, 'dome', full GI light, complete with the default HDR...and with alternate shaders, it is actually not that bad, when it comes to speed.
Well I don't have that trouble as all my scenes use different lighting etc so all I need is a camera to start with. :)
That's that I needed!
thanks for the chart reference!
Szark... When you save that scene, you could put a camera in it, but I would still set the global headlamp off under render settings instead of just on the camera... so it doesn't magically apear later. :)