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Comments
I have gotten decent results with a lot of older things by simply applying the Iray base if I like the original. Or picking out an appropriate Iray material, such as leather for men's dress shoes or metal for a warhammer. Then I change the diffuse color, or experiment with some of the other settings. I have always loved playing around with shaders & got pretty good with Carrara ones. (Even with newer clothing, I often as not change the color or even fabric) I really need to study up on Iray shaders so I know more about what I am doing.
I do a similar workflow...I find there is less distortion when you take the item directly into a modeller like zbrush. You can still send it back as a morph to the original outfit if you have weight mapped it. I did that with a lot of stuff for Dawn from V4 and also gen 3 characters. Save it with the morph dialed and it will automatically fit the next time you need it.
I personally like mucking around with the older stuff and find it enjoyable most of the time.