Indoors scenes I was told and mostly agree that it works you need to brighten the lights, no move them & set the Tone Mapping ISO to 400 (or 200, or, 800, ...) and the F-Stop to 4.6 to get the shadows to render nicely. It solves most of the problem doing that though it doesn't solve all problems all the time. You can do that outdoors too if you need to although generally the 1st higher ISO you choose is 200, not 400.
Perhaps I don't have good 3DL lights -- can you recommend some? -- but when I try posing G2 figures say, in the "Easy Iray Studio" light set I seem to get wonderful, subtle tones and acceptable detail in the shadows.
See attached; I've put red dots on the areas that (to me) seem surprisingly good.
Indoors scenes I was told and mostly agree that it works you need to brighten the lights, no move them & set the Tone Mapping ISO to 400 (or 200, or, 800, ...) and the F-Stop to 4.6 to get the shadows to render nicely. It solves most of the problem doing that though it doesn't solve all problems all the time. You can do that outdoors too if you need to although generally the 1st higher ISO you choose is 200, not 400.
Indoors scenes I was told and mostly agree that it works you need to brighten the lights, no move them & set the Tone Mapping ISO to 400 (or 200, or, 800, ...) and the F-Stop to 4.6 to get the shadows to render nicely. It solves most of the problem doing that though it doesn't solve all problems all the time. You can do that outdoors too if you need to although generally the 1st higher ISO you choose is 200, not 400.
Indoors scenes I was told and mostly agree that it works you need to brighten the lights, no move them & set the Tone Mapping ISO to 400 (or 200, or, 800, ...) and the F-Stop to 4.6 to get the shadows to render nicely. It solves most of the problem doing that though it doesn't solve all problems all the time. You can do that outdoors too if you need to although generally the 1st higher ISO you choose is 200, not 400.
Hmmm... Will hafta try this.
I have messed a lot with tone mapping in the past week and the easiest way is to lock the F-Stop, Shutter Speed and make the Exposure Value a smaller and smaller number till it looks like you expect when you render. For indoor light bulbs I would convert them to Watts and use values like you expect in real life: 60W, 75W, 100W and so on and that way you'll learn which Tone Mapping settings work best in iRay for emmissive indoor lighting set to typical real world values. More lightbulbs in a room means you will probably need a bigger Exposure Value while the same size room with less light bulbs means you will need a lower Exposure Value number. Doing it this way you won't be guessing everytime you go to render an indoor scene.
I have found that I prefer a render with a lot of noise that is correctly lit more than a scene that is lit too brightly but has no pixelation.
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Indoors scenes I was told and mostly agree that it works you need to brighten the lights, no move them & set the Tone Mapping ISO to 400 (or 200, or, 800, ...) and the F-Stop to 4.6 to get the shadows to render nicely. It solves most of the problem doing that though it doesn't solve all problems all the time. You can do that outdoors too if you need to although generally the 1st higher ISO you choose is 200, not 400.
Perhaps I don't have good 3DL lights -- can you recommend some? -- but when I try posing G2 figures say, in the "Easy Iray Studio" light set I seem to get wonderful, subtle tones and acceptable detail in the shadows.
See attached; I've put red dots on the areas that (to me) seem surprisingly good.
Hmmm... Will hafta try this.
I have messed a lot with tone mapping in the past week and the easiest way is to lock the F-Stop, Shutter Speed and make the Exposure Value a smaller and smaller number till it looks like you expect when you render. For indoor light bulbs I would convert them to Watts and use values like you expect in real life: 60W, 75W, 100W and so on and that way you'll learn which Tone Mapping settings work best in iRay for emmissive indoor lighting set to typical real world values. More lightbulbs in a room means you will probably need a bigger Exposure Value while the same size room with less light bulbs means you will need a lower Exposure Value number. Doing it this way you won't be guessing everytime you go to render an indoor scene.
I have found that I prefer a render with a lot of noise that is correctly lit more than a scene that is lit too brightly but has no pixelation.