I want to use the bigger monitor for when I use DS and Photoshop, but what I'd ideally like to do is have PART of DS on one monitor and part of it on hte other.

As in, the side panels - content, parameters etc - on hte smaller laptop, and the actual preview on the larger monitor.

How do I do this? Can I set it up so the bigger monitor is ONLY used when opening up DS? I don' want my desktop on both screens.

Did this make any sense?

Its pretty cool what you do is set up a page to look like a retro cover for a pulp sf magazine a la Amazing stories.

You can put titles, change colors of articles, and upload some Poser or Daz spacey or horror image and Ta-daaazzz you can have a web resolution image done.

( It seems i was wrong about uploading our own images.No such luck. 540 settings and parameters but no uploading our cool sf images )

If you want a really higher resolution for print, you have to pay a little .

Go check it out and maybe i'll start a thread where we can all post our covers.

https://thrilling-tales.webomator.com/derange-o-lab/pulp-o-mizer/pulp-o-mizer.html

I am trying to figure out how you can stop ear morphs used on a genesis character from distoring the hair. For example if the ears stick out a bit the hair bulges unnaturaly over them. I know I have seen a dsicussion topic on this previously but I can't seem to find it. If anyone can point me to that discussion topic, or tell me how to do this, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks.

nabob21

https://www.daz3d.com/rs-genesis-81-female-skin-merchant-resources-vol-01

do anybody know how The Creature can shut his mouth? There is a promo with closed mouth, so I hope it is possible?

https://www.daz3d.com/the-creature-hd-for-genesis-8-male

Thank you

From the list of Additional Products used in Promo Images

https://www.daz3d.com/millennium-dragon-2-hatchling

But it's for Millennium Dragon. I only own Dragon 3.

Was wondering if there is a hatchling or baby dragon form of DAZ Dragon 3 that I can use for the egg?

To be honest, the promo image really looks more like a T Rex than a dragon. So I wonder also if there is a Baby T-Rex in the shop.

Thanks!

In the attached image there is a chair that I have been trying to find for some time now. It shows up in a number of promo images for pose sets that show a sitting figure, and it looks like it has morphs to give the appearance of weight on the seat cushion. There is a similar chair in the Mafia Private Bar set by Polish but I don't think it is the same chair as the chair legs are different. Hopefully, someone can help me to identify the chair in question.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

nabob21

I like this a lot. It's super useful and easy to use. But there is something I'd like to see in the next version, if there is a next version.

I often put the camera close to the ground and for this reason it would be useful to be able to do multiple passes with the round marker. I'd like to mask out trees in a large radius, but flowers and tall grasses only in a small one, right in front of the camera.

Here is a link to the article: https://www.iflscience.com/plants-and-animals/medieval-war-horses-were-smaller-than-modern-day-ponies-study-finds/

I wouldn't call this mainstream media, but it was nice to see a Daz Studio render used in this way.

(I am not judging the article itself in any way here, mind you )

I have inported a prop from Poser. On screen the prop is vertical and horizontal to the eye. But the X Y Z rotation

are off by xrot -11.93, the yrot by 52.25 and the zrot by 25.52.

Is there a way in Daz I can reset the X Y Z rotation to "0" without moving the prop?

I think thats it. simples :)

the textures had no outfit linked and I thought it was one I had but turned out it wasn't

and I did search

both are still for sale though just not linked

similar names or styles and searching my library didn't help and the store search is dreadful, found both eventually too late through Google

only a dollar each so not worth returning

In addition to DAZ Studio, you’ll need ZBrush – or software that can produce UV maps in a controlled manner (in which you can dictate where the seams are placed), and an image editing program like Photoshop. You will also need an image for your tattoo, which should be a .png file with a transparent background.

Step-by-step:

Open Studio and load a figure.

In the Parameters pane, change the figure’s Resolution Level to Base and Subdivision Level to 0.

If the figure loads with eyelashes or facial hair, turn that visibility off in the Scene tab by clicking the little eye symbol next to it. You want nothing visible in your scene other than the base figure.

With the figure selected in the scene tab, choose File, Export, and navigate to where you’d like to save this project’s files.

Name the file BaseFigure or something similar and click Save.

The Object Export Options box will pop up.

Under “Convert from DAZ Studio” click on the To dropdown and choose DAZ Studio (1 unit = 1 cm). The other options should be left as default. Click Accept.

Open ZBrush. Under Tool, click Import. Navigate to your saved BaseFigure .obj file and open it. Click and drag in the workspace to create your figure.

Click the Edit button, and the Frame button (tip: ZB can be squirrelly. If your figure ever disappears out of the workspace, the Frame button will find it for you!)

Click to open the ZPlugin toolbar. Grab the little symbol in the top left corner and drag to the right to dock it.

Click to open UV Master.

Click Work on Clone. A white “clone” of your figure will appear.

Click Check Seams. You will see orange lines indicating the current UV map’s seams.

Click Enable Control Painting, and then click Protect.

Click in the workspace and drag to rotate your figure, and then, ensuring that Protect is still activated (in my experience it kept shutting itself off), click on your figure to paint a red area that the program will “protect” from a seam being created in the new UV. In our case, we are protecting the figure’s back, so we’ll want to paint the entire back red.

Click Unwrap. You will see your new seams appear (if you don’t, be sure Check Seams is still selected).

Click Copy UVs.

Since we’ve been working on a clone, we’ll need to go back to our original figure. Under Tool, you’ll see some thumbnails of your figure. The one with CL in front of the name is the clone. Click on the original.

Under UV Master, click Paste UVs.

Under Tool, click Export. Name your .obj and click Save.

Under UV Map, choose 4096 as your map size.

Under Texture Map, click in the blank thumbnail to open the flyout, and then choose a texture. It doesn’t matter what you choose because this won’t show in the final.

Click New from UV Check, and then Clone Txtr.

You will see a grey UV map appear in the left-hand toolbar under Texture. Click the Texture thumbnail to open a flyout. At the bottom, click Export. Navigate to your project files. Name the file NewUV or something similar and choose the .png file format. Click Save. In the Export Image box, click OK.

Open the saved UV map in an image editing program like Photoshop. Chances are, it’ll be a mess, but that doesn’t matter because our only goal was to create a map that spans the figure’s back.

In Photoshop under Layers, right click on the Background and choose Layer from Background. Click OK.

Open the .png image file for the tattoo you plan on using and drag and drop that layer over onto your UV map file. Note: although the color white *can* be used in tattoos, it isn’t standard because it tends to fade from skin. If your image has white in it, or gradient/white colors, or gradient grey, it won’t look realistic. See * below for my method of producing a black and white dragon tattoo from a Studio render using Filter Forge if you own that software.

Size and position the tattoo over the area that represents your figure’s back.

Hide the UV map layer.

Click to create a new layer, and then drag it behind your tattoo image. Using Paint Bucket, fill the layer with pure black.

Choose File, Save As, name it TattooDiffuse or similar, and save as a .jpg.

Click on the layer with your tattoo image. Right click and create a duplicate layer. Hide the original. With the duplicate layer selected, choose Image, Adjustments, Black & White. Then choose Image, Adjustments, Invert. Choose File, Save As, and name it TattooOpacity or similar. With the black background still visible, save as a .jpg.

In DAZ Studio, select your figure in the Surfaces tab. Right click on the tab and choose Load UV Set. Navigate to the NewUV .obj you exported out of ZBrush and choose Open. Name it NewUV or something similar and choose OK.

With your figure selected in the Scene tab, click on Create, New Geometry Shell. Name it and click Accept.

Select the Geometry Shell in the Surface tab, apply the Iray Uber Shader, and then change Glossy Reflectivity to zero. Scroll down to UV Set and click to open the dropdown. You will see your saved NewUV set. Choose it.

Still in the Surfaces tab, select Torso. Click the dropdown arrow next to Diffuse, browse to your saved TattooDiffuse file and apply it.

Note: if the result looks skewed or appears in the wrong place, you may have to go back into Photoshop and rotate your UV set. To do that, click Image, Image Rotation, Flip Canvas Vertical. Resave with a different name from the previous diffuse file (Studio doesn’t always recognize image files that have been changed under the same name), and don’t forget to rotate your opacity image as well.

Still in the Surfaces tab with Torso selected, click the dropdown arrow next to Cutout Opacity and browse to your saved TattooOpacity file and apply it. (In my example, I also applied the tattoo to the Geometry Shell’s arms.)

Select the remaining Geometry Shell surfaces and set Cutout Opacity to zero.

That’s it.

Hope this was helpful.

*Creating a black dragon Tattoo with Filter Forge:

In DAZ Studio, pose the DAZ Dragon III and render as a .png with no background. Open the .png in Photoshop. Click Image, Adjustments, Black and White, leave the defaults, click OK. Click to create a new layer, and then drag it behind the dragon image. Using Paint Bucket, fill the layer with pure white. Click Layer, Merge Visible. With the layer selected, click Filter, and choose Filter Forge. In Filter Forge, click on Filter Library: Download More Filters. Search for a filter called “Extract Transparency” (a brilliant filter by Jens Elstner) and open. Click Apply. In Photoshop, your dragon image has had all white/grey pixels removed. Click Image, Adjustments, Invert. Click to create another new layer, and again, drag it behind the dragon image. Using Paint Bucket, fill the layer with pure black. Click File, Save As, and save as a .jpg. This is an opacity map, which is all you will need. In the above method, instead of applying a diffuse map, you change the diffuse color to black, and simply apply the opacity file in Cutout Opacity.

I've had the product bundle for https://www.daz3d.com/growing-up-for-genesis-8-female-s for a few years, but haven't used it for awhile and particularly not with 4.16 of DS.

I generally export via FBX, but don't recall having to Bake anything before.  But even so, Baking to transforms doesn't work in this case.  Not only aren't they baking, but they revert to the adult stage after this first pass. If you try to bake & you accept the defaulted starting Poses category, DS hangs.  Why???

So I do every category, ONE at a TIME, and that generally works.  But in this case, no. And if I don't bake, the same thing.

Not having proper docs on any of this certainly doesn't help, but is there method or recipe I should be looking at for this, such as am I missing a step?

Or could someone explore this a bit more see if something is amiss?

A bit Indiana Jones and a bit Atlantis...

My render is on the right, from about a year, or so, ago.

When I saw the ad, I had to comment.

I really like the outfit on the render on the left.

Thumbs up!

:)

JD

Does the flying saucer that comes with this bundle include the effect shown in the promo images?

Or do I need another product to create the light beam effects reaching down from the saucer?

https://www.daz3d.com/extraterrestrial-flying-saucer

Just about any character that shows wearable, hair, props, on the character, those items aren't included and aren't even listed as to what they are.  This practice is deceptive from a purchaser's POV, but it also seems to be a lost opportunity to promote other products.  If I like some of the other items featured, why not link to them in the description -- many times I would gladly go and purchase them as well. 

And would DAZ inform his customers in such a case?

Thanks.

Something like below preferably with some cross road.

This project gives you a unique abandoned hospital experience with structure and props. All of the models can be moved or removed from the scene as desired so you can have the scene you want.

Also, you can paint the walls as you want with 10 different decal materials. The scene consists of a plentitude of realistic props, 7 camera settings, and render settings for the scene. 

Recently I upgraded my current PC to a 12GB RTX 3060 and 64GB of RAM (thanks to PerttiA, AgitatedRiot, and JVRenderer for that suggestion), so I can move those over to my new system. For the rest of the components, I'm thinking of going with this:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor
Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler
Mother Board: Msi MAG X570s Tomahawk Max
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB (4 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 CL16
Primary Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME SSD
Secondary Storage: Samsung 870 QVO 4 TB 2.5" SSD
GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 3060 12 GB XC GAMING
PSU: Corsair HX Platinum 850 W 80+ Platinum
Case Fans: 4x Corsair ML120 75 CFM 120 mm Fans, and 4x Corsair ML140 97 CFM 140 mm Fans
Case: Corsair 5000D Airflow

I know some parts like the CPU, Mother Board, and 8 case fans are probably overkill for what I need, but as this will probably be going for the next 5 years (or more), I'm trying to future-proof a little and make it's everyday life a little easier; "Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it".

I am a bit lost on what to get in regards to monitors however. Currently I'm using using a 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Acer monitor (XG270HU), but I'm thinking of upgrading to a 4K monitor. As I mentioned, I enjoy some gaming from time to time as well, so if anyone has any suggestions for a good quality (not necessiarly top tier) monitor that would be both great for rendering and solid for gaming, then I'd love to hear them.

Please let me know what you think! Thanks in advance!