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I replaced a group of ViewSonic LCD's with Samsung pivot LCD's for about the same price, the users who are all graphic artists were very happy with the improvements. but I don't see where any one technology beats out another with LCD's, usually I see a give and take or an improvement in one area but a loss elsewhere. LCD's get better year after year and most parts are outsourced from a single factory that makes "that" part so your Samsung, Viewsonic, Sony, ASUS LCD all have the capacitors or motherglass from that one distributor. The only difference is the very high end press ready LCD's which tend to cost more but sometimes require additional hardware in order to calibrate to the fullest and for the most part your hobbyist will never really benefit from that unless they are running a high end print.
my $-0.02
FYI, the ASUS VS24AH-P was also an IPS panel, so (for those that don't have one yet) when shopping don't assume that just because a monitor uses IPS that it will be good for graphics. And no, I don't blame anyone else for my purchase, just myself for making bad assumptions.
In response to LeatherGryphon (I think):
I don't know what you mean by CRT vs. LED; I haven't used a CRT monitor for about 10 years now. There are many makers with modern tools, but as far as I can tell, two major ones. I should also say that I have not had experience (yet), but here's what I know:
DataColor, which makes the Spyder line.
XRite, which makes XRite/Pantone, the X1, and Colormunki lines.
One of these is what I want:
Spyder Studio for monitors and printers
Spyder Capture for Monitors and camera lenses.
The biggest priority for me is to calibrate my monitor, which would be covered by either kit above. Printer and Camera Lens calibrations would probably come next, but I won't need both right away.
That is true, IPS is not magic, and I've heard similar things about the VS line. I'm glad you made this clarification.
I'm thankful that I've had great luck with the PA line.
I have a Spyder3, which I just used today for the first time on the LCD monitor (previously used on the CRT monitors.) It seems to work fine, although I have no other corrected monitors to compare against. My LCD has fewer options to change (can't adjust the three individual colors independently, and appears to not even have a contrast control, just a brightness control) and thus I didn't have to do as much adjusting during the test, basically it just had me turn the brightness way down then generated it's profile. At the end of the test you can also toggle the profile on/off while staring at a test screen picture to quickly see what effect it actually has.
One very minor flaw with the Spyder3 is that it's suction cup... er... doesn't suck, so you have to hold it onto the CRT throughout the test; harmless but awkward. For the LCD where you don't use the suction cup you just tip the screen back and kind of hang the cord over the top with the device resting against the screen and the counterweight on the cord hanging over the back to keep it from sliding, although I do wonder if a severely kinked cord from coiling it might still require me holding it someday.
I drove down to Fry's again today and took a look at the Asus PB278Q 27" monitor (the $600 one.) I also looked at an Apple Thunderbolt 27" widescreen LED monitor at Best Buy for about $1000 even though my PC doesn't have any Thunderbolt connectivity, just because I was curious and they didn't have much else. Interestingly both had the exact same issue as the far less expensive one I bought. I am beginning to wonder if it is possible that perhaps other people who are happy with theirs see the issue but it simply doesn't bother them in any way, or have it but don't notice it. Or the good ones just aren't in stock where I'm looking. Wish I could find recommended models visible in person to compare.
Sean, I re-read your problem on page 2:
I do not detect this phenomenon in either of my PA 248Q monitors when my eyes are in front of the center of the monitor and my face is 24" away. Basic geometry: if too close, the angles from your eyes to the edges will be greater.
My 3-monitor stand does have the left and right monitors arranged so that when I turn my head to see them, the part of the monitor that is closest to my eyes (example, the rightmost third of the left monitor) appears slightly brighter. It is very subtle and I would have never noticed it had I not read your post. I can "make" it happen with my center monitor (also a PA248Q) by moving my head a foot to the right or left while still seated 20 inches from the monitor. When I sit back a little farther and move my head, the effect is a lot less noticeable.
Based on this, I believe this effect is a function of the screen type, and not a flaw in the PA248Q. And as I said, it's very VERY subtle, so much that it will not bother me in the least.
I just bought this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-LS27C65UDS-EN-S27C650D-LED-Monitor/dp/B00B1BBY8E/
- mainly as a backup as my current monitors are probably close to death (fluorescent backlight). It's actually very good for the price IMO - I got it even cheaper than the price at amazon even though I'm in Europe despite prices here usually are higher than in US, so you may get it cheaper elsewhere. It has better colors than the old one, MWA panel with great viewing angles, and comes with a 3 year warranty.
I wouldn't go for anything less than a 27" 1920x1080 for 3D/graphics work, and that's even a bit too small a resolution IMO. My old Samsung SyncMaster is 1920x1200 / 16:10, unfortunately it's hard to find 16:10 monitors at a reasonable price anymore because the DVD industry sort of forced the hardware industry to shift from the old 16:10 to 16:9 so they fit the DVD format. The downside of this is that the vertical resolution har dropped from 1200 to 1080.
So I'm thinking of going for a 27" / 2560 x 1440 for 3D / graphics work now. I'm currently looking at these two which should be among the best you can get:
http://www.amazon.com/Eizo-FlexScan-EV2736W-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BTA7XPK/
http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-Professional-BL2710PT-27-Inch-LED-lit/dp/B00D7IG5N8
An ultra-wide monitor may also be an interesting choice for 3D if you're creating large scenes, DELL has made a rather inexpensive one. Just be aware of what someone says in a review:
"Dell got almost everything right with this monitor, everything except its SIZE. If you are "upgrading" from a 27" 16:9 monitor like I did, prepare for the shock of losing 2 full inches of vertical size! I measured it, image size is 11 1/4" high."
http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Computer-UltraSharp-U2913WM-0CX7K/dp/B00BIBB1KI/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rf7FcIgkgDY
As for backlight, the new Samsung has LED backlight which uses much less power and generates practically no heat (mine is completely cold even after several hours of use). My old monitors with fluorescent backlight use much more power and are getting quite hot. I think it's hard to find monitors with fluorescent backlight today though, all I've come across have LED so it's not really an issue. LED has a longer lifetime as well so it's the obvious choice.
There's something here about panel types, there are quite a lot of different types these days actually:
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/panel_technologies.htm
BTW, I once wrote a program to calculate monitor sizes, just a fun project so it's not very advanced (not sure how useful it is either). It can be downloaded here if anyone's interested:
http://taosoft.dk/software/freeware/monsize/
I've had one bad pixel (bright - the worst type IMO as it's completely white) on a 19" monitor - I was quite annoyed about it in the beginning, but like with so many other annoying things, after I sort of stopped thinking of it I didn't really notice it anymore. The 3 other's I have/have had plus one I had replaced have been flawless in that respect.
There's a program here that can be useful for testing for dead pixels ands other sftuff:
http://www.brothersoft.com/checkemon-160297.html
There's a software calibrator here which I'm using myself but I don't kno whow it compares to a hardware calibrator:
http://atrise.com/lutcurve/
It's not clear from your posts whether you've changed your graphics card yet.
In case you haven't, it could be the old D-Sub (VGA) contributing to some of that light haze.
Switching to one of the digital connections might reduce that effect.
The other thing might be, having Dynamic Contrast still active.
...and finally, is there an anti-reflective coating on the monitor?
Modern coatings have improved greatly but are still not as good as clear glass in a light controlled room.
(It depends how anti-social you're prepared to be) :-)
The light haze is not caused by my graphics card (the haze is only visible from a slight angle, and is completely gone from any given spot if you move your head left or right to be looking straight on to that spot. I am still using my original graphics card which luckily does still handle the increased screen resolution, but have replaced the D-sub connector and adapter with a DVI cable.)
The haze is not actually a reflection or glare from anything else in the room, even though that's exactly the effect one would see from a reflection. It happens in a pitch black room with all lights off, and as described above, it's dependent on viewing angle between your head and the monitor, and independent of the monitor's physical location within the room. If your head is near the left side of the monitor, it increases to the right, if it's near the right, it increases towards the left, if it's in the middle, it increases evenly to each side. I might try to reposition my monitor slightly so I'm not closer to one end all the time, as soon as I can pull everything off my desk to do so. You can still see it even from the middle, but it's slightly less pronounced that way because the left side will match the right side even if they don't match the middle. Of course I don't sit in exactly one position unmoving, I turn to look at each monitor or use the other keyboard or reference a book or straighten up if my back is sore, so I'm not sure how much that will really help, but it's worth a try I suppose.
Where might I find a way to adjust Dynamic Contrast? Is it a setting my monitor might have somewhere in it's menu (incidentally I lied earlier, I just found a bunch of extra options in the menu that allow me to make more adjustments than I originally said.) Or is it a setting in Nvidia's control panel somewhere, or something in Windows 7?
Unless that's a glossy glass screen, it does sound more like an anti-glare coating.
Those work by reflecting light that hits the monitor 'sideways' along the film.
(That includes light shining on the back of the film. It might reduce if you reduce brightness overall.)
I've no idea where in the monitor menu the dynamic contrast control would be.
Its purpose is to continually alter the contrast so that no corner of a dungeon is too dark and no sky too bright.
Wandering through dungeons and being able to see the monster that kills you!
That's really the only use for it. Turn it off immediately!
:-)
That's a good thing about my ASUS VE247H... no shiny screen so no reflections. To the best of my knowledge all LED and LCD monitors have to be looked at straight on for optimal viewing. It's the nature of the screen. CRT screens are generating the light from the electrons hitting the phosphors on the tube face, so the glow is apparent from all directions in front equally. Light is being shown through the pixels of the liquid crystal display, so the light is more narrow and kind of projected, not like the light from a glowing phosphor, so it's a different approach. It's almost like the effect on older projection TVs, but not as bad. It's less pronounced on newer screens, but it's still there. That's why you notice the lack of contrast when you are viewing the image off axis.
I got the ASUS a couple summers ago because it was affordable, it's HD and has a fast 2ms response so motion looks much better than on most displays and it's closer to a CRT screen's response (and it could fit on the hotel room desk while they were fixing my apartment after the flood). The color to me, uncalibrated looks pretty good. It's shared between PCs with an old ATI card in one and an EVGA GTX 470 Nvidia card in the newer home brew box. Looks good with both.
I still have all my old CRT monitors, including an old Sony 24 inch monitor I bought used from a sale of monitors from some engineering firm a few years ago. I got to demo it first and its color/contrast is great. I save it from daily use so I can use it when I have some critical stuff to be reviewed. It weighs a ton from all the shielding! It was fun (NOT!) trying to get it home when I got it and when I had to retrieve it from the storage unit after the flood. Requires two people to move it safely.
I have a Spyder3, which I just used today for the first time on the LCD monitor (previously used on the CRT monitors.) It seems to work fine, although I have no other corrected monitors to compare against. My LCD has fewer options to change (can't adjust the three individual colors independently, and appears to not even have a contrast control, just a brightness control) and thus I didn't have to do as much adjusting during the test, basically it just had me turn the brightness way down then generated it's profile. At the end of the test you can also toggle the profile on/off while staring at a test screen picture to quickly see what effect it actually has.
One very minor flaw with the Spyder3 is that it's suction cup... er... doesn't suck, so you have to hold it onto the CRT throughout the test; harmless but awkward. For the LCD where you don't use the suction cup you just tip the screen back and kind of hang the cord over the top with the device resting against the screen and the counterweight on the cord hanging over the back to keep it from sliding, although I do wonder if a severely kinked cord from coiling it might still require me holding it someday.
I drove down to Fry's again today and took a look at the Asus PB278Q 27" monitor (the $600 one.) I also looked at an Apple Thunderbolt 27" widescreen LED monitor at Best Buy for about $1000 even though my PC doesn't have any Thunderbolt connectivity, just because I was curious and they didn't have much else. Interestingly both had the exact same issue as the far less expensive one I bought. I am beginning to wonder if it is possible that perhaps other people who are happy with theirs see the issue but it simply doesn't bother them in any way, or have it but don't notice it. Or the good ones just aren't in stock where I'm looking. Wish I could find recommended models visible in person to compare.
Thank you muchly. :-) I've at least now put a monitor calibration device into my Amazon.com cart. Whether it gets purchased soon or not depends on the fates.
Unfortunately I decided to read the article mentioned earlier in this thread about IPS and other type monitors, and it was more information that I wanted to know because it has left me greedily wanting to get higher quality monitors. (*sigh*) :-(