I didn’t mean to be dismissive, but It does honestly take me as long to do a bump map as it does to do a texture map.
I work in layers when I am making my textures (bearing in mind I make clothing textures mostly) I will maybe have 6 layers with elements of the pattern on them, and 6 more layers with the same elements, but manipulated to provide the bump. Displacement can be a different map to the bump map. I do sometimes use both, so the displacement will provide some elements of the style, and the bump other elements, so if for instance I want to put folds in, they will be on the displ map, but something like embroidery will have a bump map.
It really is difficult to decribe without makingo an actual illustrated tutorial, and I am having problems finding time at the mo to make a tutorial. I have promised to do some more tuts, and will get round to them (hopefully).
The one tut that is on my site does give some pointers, but is clothing Click the link to CHohole’s Space in my sig bar if you are inteersted, tut is on the index page, so click on enter and scroll down.