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Posted: 06 November 2013 05:03 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 31 ]
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Ok thanks all; I will get back to work now....Trish
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Posted: 06 November 2013 07:33 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 32 ]
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For firefly, and any one else of course.

First screen shot shows where I made my black layer semi transparent, so I could still see the grid line while trying to place some white (visible) elements. If you look at the top of the layers screen you will se I have temp made it 60%

Second screen shot, if it is clear enough, shows where I make the edge of the selected sector a wee bit bigger than the actual template, to make sure I get the edges covered

This particular texture, I can use further to show you haw to do displacement and/or bump maps at a later stage, which will enhance the texture, as this particular texture was one where I used self coloured embroidery, using layer styles (purchased styles in this case, as I do buy a lot of merchant resources in order to make my textures)

I will find an image of the completed texture to show you, but I don't want to put you off with too much complicated stuff to start with

[ Edited: 06 November 2013 07:48 AM by chohole ]
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Posted: 06 November 2013 07:46 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 33 ]
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here is the texture I was working on, for those screen shots.
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Posted: 06 November 2013 12:12 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 34 ]
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I try to follw the line as exactly as possible when it is within the outlines of the dress. When it goes outside the outlines, onto the background I do always allow it to do so, this makes sure that you don't get any missed parts on the seams where the two pieces go together, does that makes sense?


What I am hearing is yes go past the color coded seam lines and just a smidgen more to make sure the underlying pattern is covered. Right?


And as to the white parts, the parts that should be visible in your final map, as long as they are not spoiling your style lines, then they can overlap. It is the final result, once you have flattened the image that should then show the exact style that you wanted it to,


From this I hear, focus on getting as close as possible to the design I want as I am building and if the white goes over another layer a bit don't worry about it right now. Periodically save the work as both a psd and jpg and check how it is looking. If the overlap is a problem for the design I can go back into the psd file and use eraser and paint to adjust it. Correct??


Once you have your black shape, to give you the transparent parts, you can always alter the layer in the layer dialogue to make it only partially visible, so that you can see the template lines through it.


Yes, now on the second try I can do that. You can chuckle away (I know I did) at the first attempt I made. I was copying the entire dress seam guide into each layer and becoming frustrated because I could not see where one piece began and the other ended. By layer 6 my mind actually came to life and finally asked "why are you doing that?" LMAO .... I just cannot believe I did that .... BUT it is fixed now and all layers are totally visible and the work is going pretty good.

Just want to make sure that I am not doing something that will be problematic later. The lasso is semi-hard for me to use because my mouse sucks. So I am doing each piece (top, skirt, etc.) in bits and pieces with the lasso instead of trying to lasso out the entire piece, so that my painting is a bit more precise with less evening out after the lasso is turned off. IS this okay??

I also am making great use of your "do half" of the garment piece suggestion to get the symmetry. I do half, flip the canvas and then paste into a new layer to line them up. Is it okay to merge these to layers to make it one piece?


I will try to do a couple of screen shots later, to show you what I mean.


I would love to learn how to make the bump and displacement maps! YES YES please teach us (or probably just me ... LOL)!


Your stuff is AWESOME!! I download a lot of it!! This is what I want to be able to do some day. Sooo.. Thanks so much for teaching us to be as good as you and other vendors are!!






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Posted: 06 November 2013 12:16 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 35 ]
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bullit35744 - 05 November 2013 05:46 AM
ok really stupid question probably......but could I use this seam guide for the mill dragon2...to design a new skin texture for him....these colored squares line up like a sewing pattern somehow right or not??? thanks Trish



That is such a cool idea! Cannot wait to see what you do with that!

It would never have even occurred to me that you could do it with a "figure, character" type item.

Good luck I know you will do awesome!

BTW .... it took me two hours to find the paint bucket .... LOL. I finally pulled up the help doc to figure out where it was.


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Posted: 06 November 2013 01:39 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 36 ]
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firefly43 - 06 November 2013 12:16 PM
bullit35744 - 05 November 2013 05:46 AM
ok really stupid question probably......but could I use this seam guide for the mill dragon2...to design a new skin texture for him....these colored squares line up like a sewing pattern somehow right or not??? thanks Trish



That is such a cool idea! Cannot wait to see what you do with that!

It would never have even occurred to me that you could do it with a "figure, character" type item.

Good luck I know you will do awesome!

BTW .... it took me two hours to find the paint bucket .... LOL. I finally pulled up the help doc to figure out where it was.



Patience55 has a tutorial on making skins from scratch (focuses on human skins, but I suppose the same principles would apply to dragon skins). It would be a big project to take on, but for the brave or curious there's lots of good tips and information:

Tutorial thread in the forum
Downloadable zip version
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Posted: 07 November 2013 01:38 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 37 ]
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Scott: thank you for the link I am sure that will help also.....Trish

Firefly: Yes that paint bucket was well hidden...I was clicking buttons about that long also....and then I thought why don't I just ask...LOL
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Please remember my comprehension level is not the same as a rocket scientist…
Bryce7Pro-Addict…............Darkside-oholic…......Carrara-wannabee
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Posted: 07 November 2013 01:51 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 38 ]
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bullit35744 - 07 November 2013 01:38 AM
Scott: thank you for the link I am sure that will help also.....Trish

Firefly: Yes that paint bucket was well hidden...I was clicking buttons about that long also....and then I thought why don't I just ask...LOL



I saw your post and got so excited I could finally help someone with something I learned ..... but alas someone beat me to it. LOL

Just glad we both finally found the elusive bucket before pulling out our hair. wink
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Posted: 07 November 2013 04:46 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 39 ]
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Ok maybe I over shot with my dragon idea.......on making a real one so I am going to make a stuffed dragon......so here in lies the problem again ....PS has so many bells and buttons ...Tried to use this to make a brush of this material ....it does it but not with the material colors it just shows the pattern so How do I do that??? I am afraid this is going to turn into a learn to work PS....sorry about that...Trish
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Posted: 07 November 2013 05:15 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 40 ]
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Defining a brush will always just give you the brush shape. You then choose to use whichever colour you want for the brush.

You need to Define Pattern. Then you will have a fill that you can use with your Paint bucket.

Edited to add that this is best done with images that will tile seamlessly.
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Posted: 07 November 2013 05:25 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 41 ]
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chohole: thank you
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Please remember my comprehension level is not the same as a rocket scientist…
Bryce7Pro-Addict…............Darkside-oholic…......Carrara-wannabee
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Posted: 07 November 2013 06:58 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 42 ]
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bullit35744 - 07 November 2013 04:46 AM
Ok maybe I over shot with my dragon idea.......on making a real one so I am going to make a stuffed dragon......so here in lies the problem again ....PS has so many bells and buttons ...Tried to use this to make a brush of this material ....it does it but not with the material colors it just shows the pattern so How do I do that??? I am afraid this is going to turn into a learn to work PS....sorry about that...Trish


I totally agree on this point...only in my case it is learning GIMP.

But these could be useful skills in the future so I am persevering. No promises on the outcome. I am not much of a fashinista.



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Posted: 08 November 2013 12:51 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 43 ]
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okay, the forum link for making folds and such in the tutorial sent me to 404 not found page. So, I spent all day trying different ways to make folds.

This is what I have come up with so far, using paint in various shades of gray and then using Gausian & Motion Blur. But to me something still looks off.

Can someone give me any pointers on how to make it look less harsh. If I set the Blur up to high I lose the definition of where the fold is suppose to be.

I know this is a bad rendition of what a fold should look like, so any pointers or even different ways to achieve it would be appreciated.
[ Edited: 08 November 2013 01:32 AM by firefly43 ]
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Posted: 08 November 2013 04:22 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 44 ]
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You could try using a gradient, also I do tend to use Liquify sometimes on folds, to make them look more natural

A fold made using a gradient A fold using a gradient double to show how it looks A fold then taking into the liqify filter and qickly altered a bit and finally same fold with a blur filter added.
[ Edited: 08 November 2013 06:09 AM by chohole ]
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Posted: 08 November 2013 07:16 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 45 ]
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And as you asked for a quick burst on displacement and bump maps, here goes.


1. Bumpmap, a grayscale image where different shades of gray determine how much of a texture/height a surface is going to get. Usually used for very fine detail, like cloth weave, rock texture, fine skin pores and things that make surfaces look touchable.

2. Displacement map, also a grayscale image where different shades of gray determine how much of a texture/height a surface is going to get. Usually used for bigger detail then bumpmap, but smaller then what can be done with a morph. Sometimes it's clothing wrinkles, sometimes bumps and rivets and other medium sized detail.

The difference is how computer calculates it. In bumpmaps the rendering creates an illusion of texture, while in displacement, computer actually calculates how the mesh is displaced... so, if you look along the edge of an object, Bumpmap will not change object silhouette, displacement map will change the silhouette (or displace the mesh to use the technical term).

So take a simple dress image 1 I wnated to turn it into a true dirndl dress

Add a bump map image 2

add a displacement map Image 3

What it looks like with a texture. It is subtle in this image, but the right side of the dress has bump only, the left side has displacement. Of course right and left are reversed as you look at the dress. so the left side of the image is the one with the bump only

and finally a small section of the map I used, which has been used both as bump and displacement for this particular dress.
[ Edited: 08 November 2013 07:21 AM by chohole ]
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