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Let’s Make Clothing! Tutorial thread. Shoes too!
Posted: 16 May 2013 07:52 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 631 ]
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I now have my genesis all set to go, looks like fun already,.. just one welded mesh, and no hidden original with all the parts left intact for later reference, as when preparing the dummy with the older figures smile

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Posted: 16 May 2013 09:46 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 632 ]
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Okay ... Opening Hexagon [starts fresh, no memory of previous mats], import the new clothing dummy.

Freeze the dummy.

And let’s take a look at a few different ways to start the mesh.

As the end result is basically the same no matter which way one starts an item, how one proceeds is basically personal preference.

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Posted: 16 May 2013 09:47 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 633 ]
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Rule number one with working in Hexagon is “save OFTEN”. Can’t be over emphasized.

Save As to start, and “save” to save.
Save after any “hay I like” that moment.
Save before answering the telephone.
Incre save “very often”.

When finished one part/section/item ... “save” ... do a little something/anything, “incre save” then start the next part/section/item and carry on.
Why is so that if/when one wishes they hadn’t changed something, one can always go back to the previous incre save and start again.

When nearing the end of a project ... learn from others and save yourselves some headaches ... “export out an .obj file” ... then in the worst case scenario, you can start off with that. Worst case scenario is when [not if sadly] “occasionally” Hexagon decides to “eat the file”. Sometimes one can go back quite a few saves only to find that whatever was causing the problem, may have invalidated quite the collection. So don’t be shy about closing Hexagon every now and then, opening it and opening up the last save. Be sure you’re working on a good file.

One will find that many problems with Hexagon do subside as one learns what their copy of Hexagon will or won’t do, and possibly why, on their system. So not to be discouraged, it has a user friendly interface for many people and providing one isn’t expecting it to be what it isn’t, one can model some very nice items with it. When one wins the Lottery, one can buy Max. [I can dream too]

 

 

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Posted: 17 May 2013 08:10 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 634 ]
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The cylinder is also a good shape to start modeling items with.

Was trying some ideas out for making V3 a triax model to see if we could get Hexagon to make the groups for us, but it doesn’t look like it.
Would be interesting if we could as most know, grouping for the older figures is a pain.

Okay ... there’s a new release for D/S4.6 with a yucky splash screen - they refuse to comprehend the need to change it.
So experience will be their teacher I am sure.

Also, pre-release Hexagon tutorials are being sold ... hmmm ...

Big holiday this long weekend.
Enjoy the summer wink

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Posted: 18 May 2013 07:36 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 635 ]
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Dreamlight has a new Hexagon revisted class, includes how to model outfits for genesis.
http://www.dream-lounge.com/dreamlightclub/hr/

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Posted: 18 May 2013 03:41 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 636 ]
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Not into prepaying for stuff not yet released myself. That plate that moved yesterday was pretty big you know. Somehow if I buy something, want it on my computer stat.

Anyhow ... onward and upwards ...

Ta-Dah!

I have a few images to edit wink

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Posted: 18 May 2013 05:13 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 637 ]
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Looks great Patience!  grin

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    —- Wolff On The Prowl—-

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Posted: 18 May 2013 06:32 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 638 ]
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Thank you. Did you notice the figure? That was made from the original free mesh!

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Posted: 18 May 2013 11:41 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 639 ]
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No, just assumed it was Genesis.  I don’t usually get into playing with other figures these days since Genesis is the main figure that can be just about anything.

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    —- Wolff On The Prowl—-

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Posted: 19 May 2013 12:07 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 640 ]
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I made an English style waistcoat from about 1750, suppose it looks a bit like a simple dress smile  I do not know how the buttons will work but am sure everything will all be fine in the end.
I am not sure I understand about the figure you have got there Patience what is the original free mesh.

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Posted: 19 May 2013 08:43 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 641 ]
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TapiocaTundra - 19 May 2013 12:07 PM

I made an English style waistcoat from about 1750, suppose it looks a bit like a simple dress smile  I do not know how the buttons will work but am sure everything will all be fine in the end.
I am not sure I understand about the figure you have got there Patience what is the original free mesh.

Nice waistcoat! 

V3 wink  As several people are rather attached to V3 thought I’d try something a little different. Certainly not a perfect solution but for the occasional still suppose it might be of interest at least that it can be done. I was working with the V3 blank and posed to make this. On another computer was trying with the full V3 but that computer doesn’t have the Hexagon <>D/S4.x bridge and sadly all exports out of D/S were of the default “T” instead of some poses :-(

Anyway ... for buttons, underneath them, need lots of mesh! And the edge corners may require corner line extractions to keep their shape through the smoothing in D/S4.x

@ any/all   Before agonizing over the final uvmaps and shading domains, it’s a good idea to throw the intended clothing item over to Genesis and just make the clothing [not save it, just make it] and check for any mesh anomalies.

I’m about 1/2 way through editing a few images wink


edit to add: Just a thought.
Haven’t quite pegged ‘what or why’ but grouping .obj in Hexagon sometimes doesn’t have the desired after effect in D/S.

For eg. with the buttons, one could weld them all together, even with the waistcoat so that there’s only “1” clothing item to import into D/S.
Using “Shading Domains”, all the buttons could be each given their own space on the CheckerT as well as the back and front [however you were planning to flatten it out].

 

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Posted: 20 May 2013 10:47 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 642 ]
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Thank you Patience,
Lots of mesh underneath the buttons, I had not thought about that, at the moment they are not solid, just half of a geodesic cube sphere, I thought that would be sufficient do you think They will be better as solid mesh, or do you mean that the coat has to be denser in that area. I will test it out now in Daz anyway as you suggest. I am not with it at all today.blank stare
It took me a wee while to work out that by “own space on the CheckerT”  you are talking about the UV Mapping smile I fear I am getting a little slow on the uptake lately confused now where did I put my specs.

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Posted: 20 May 2013 10:59 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 643 ]
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To stop buttons from sinking into the mesh, you need to make the underlying mesh much more dense than the rest. Ie the waistcoat part under the buttons need to be denser. Buttons don’t need to be solid either.grin

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Wendy

My website: http://www.wilmapsdigitalcreations.co.uk

Tutorials: http://www.wilmapsdigitalcreations.co.uk/view_products.php?cat=10

PLEASE NOTE:
My items are NOT to be used on Second Life website.  They have recently changed their TOS and are legally able to take/steal anything uploaded and resell/redistribute to items.

 

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Posted: 20 May 2013 11:15 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 644 ]
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Ahh, thanks Wendy that will give me something to play with this evening, the mesh is a bit bent around the pocket flaps too and needs tweaking or separating or something smile

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Posted: 20 May 2013 04:05 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 645 ]
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Tried to get an example but Hexie crashed, the corner edges ... say one did an extraction all around and there’s a line from the corner point to the inside lines; select that little diagonal line and extract edges around it. Then corners will hold through smoothing.

I don’t know about buttons, but for some certain items wore on uniforms, they may need to be solid and certainly as well modeled as anything else just to hold their shape through various fits.

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