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WIP THREAD FOR NEW USERS CONTEST, February 2013.
Posted: 21 February 2013 10:52 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 106 ]
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Oh I do wish the forum would be consistent... either it should notify when posts are posted or not. Not sometimes and not others... anyway, I've kinda lost track of what was going on here, but here's a new tutorial that might be helpful - the first 10 minutes at least. After that things will get a bit hairy for beginners.

Bryce "Nuts and Bolts" - breaking down lighting, diffuse, ambient, specular and... by David Brinnen
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Posted: 21 February 2013 03:58 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 107 ]
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Ooh! Lighting tutorial, yay! Thanks. I've never messed with lighting in Bryce much other than the sun. And one pretty dramatic wizard's staff in a sunken treasure chest, that was fun. Off to learn something new!
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Posted: 21 February 2013 04:41 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 108 ]
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Right, it's about time I showed what I've been playing with!

I took my original image and threw it away, preferring instead to start again from scratch, though I wanted the same feel to the picture.

Having played with many things, especially the lighting, this is where I'm at now. As always, constructive criticism is welcome.

Many thanks to David and Chohole for their help and advice.
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Posted: 21 February 2013 05:48 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 109 ]
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BlumBlumShub - 21 February 2013 04:41 PM
Right, it's about time I showed what I've been playing with!

I took my original image and threw it away, preferring instead to start again from scratch, though I wanted the same feel to the picture.

Having played with many things, especially the lighting, this is where I'm at now. As always, constructive criticism is welcome.

Many thanks to David and Chohole for their help and advice.


Looking very good indeed. My recommendation, more light (in addition to the sun) and lift the haze (goes upwards with cloud height). Lighting choices depend on the power of your CPU. Either put in a simple bluish radial somewhere behind your camera. No fall off, no shadows, about 4 or 5 diffuse. Or go to town with IBL or if you are feeling really brave / daft - melt your CPU with TA rendering (but that's very hard to set up so probably not for now).
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Posted: 22 February 2013 02:02 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 110 ]
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David Brinnen - 21 February 2013 05:48 PM
BlumBlumShub - 21 February 2013 04:41 PM
Right, it's about time I showed what I've been playing with!

I took my original image and threw it away, preferring instead to start again from scratch, though I wanted the same feel to the picture.

Having played with many things, especially the lighting, this is where I'm at now. As always, constructive criticism is welcome.

Many thanks to David and Chohole for their help and advice.


Looking very good indeed. My recommendation, more light (in addition to the sun) and lift the haze (goes upwards with cloud height). Lighting choices depend on the power of your CPU. Either put in a simple bluish radial somewhere behind your camera. No fall off, no shadows, about 4 or 5 diffuse. Or go to town with IBL or if you are feeling really brave / daft - melt your CPU with TA rendering (but that's very hard to set up so probably not for now).

I was going to set up IBL the way you showed in your earlier tutorial but I didn't get round to it yet because of the render time. I just wanted to get a render out and published here before I gave up!

Lighting is a large arse cake! This is the best I've had the lighting. I deliberately dropped the haze intensity because it looked like I was viewing it through dirty specs, but I didn't raise the height.

Won't be around much to play today, but I'll work on it over the weekend.

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Posted: 22 February 2013 04:25 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 111 ]
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Hey Barry love the sig line....if I had room I would have added that myself.

Your image reminds me of my first ever Bryce scene I did. Nice work but as David has already suggested, more light. smile But stick at it, follow Davids tuts and all wil be well, yes lighting can be bottom cake but as time goes on it becomes a comfortable blanket. smile
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Posted: 22 February 2013 07:41 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 112 ]
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I have continued to adjust my ligthning (i found my previous render was a bit too luminous).

And during my experiment of the cloud tab, i got a full covered sky with dark clouds, so i made a darkest version of my scene with a bad weather.
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Posted: 22 February 2013 11:58 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 113 ]
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Szark - 22 February 2013 04:25 AM
Hey Barry love the sig line....if I had room I would have added that myself.

Your image reminds me of my first ever Bryce scene I did. Nice work but as David has already suggested, more light. smile But stick at it, follow Davids tuts and all wil be well, yes lighting can be bottom cake but as time goes on it becomes a comfortable blanket. smile

I've struggled a lot with this image. Ok, yes, it's my first time trying to use Bryce to make a proper image. In the past I've just used it to make skies to use in Studio.

I find it so hard to position things in Bryce, I'm not sure it's worth the effort using it beyond this contest. I like the DTE, if I can get to grips with that then there's potential for more art in Bryce. I hate the trees. I would need to get fluent with the tree/vegetation creating if I'm going to use it a lot.

And I'll absolutely NEED to find an easy way to position items, especially when Bryce starts slowing down when you have more than a few items in it.

Having said that, I'm happy with the direction this art is going, and I've got a render which thinks it's going to take 3 hours including IBL. Normally I'd really sulk about a 3 hour render, but in this case I'm just looking forward to seeing the result.
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Posted: 23 February 2013 09:58 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 114 ]
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BlumBlumShub - 22 February 2013 11:58 AM


I find it so hard to position things in Bryce, I'm not sure it's worth the effort using it beyond this contest.


Funny how that works... Bryce was my first experience with anything 3D. When I started working with other programs, I used to get seriously frustrated and holler at them, "Why can't you be more like Bryce!?"
Your image looks mighty cool, by the way. I like the camera angle.
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Posted: 24 February 2013 03:09 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 115 ]
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BlumBlumShub - 22 February 2013 11:58 AM
... I find it so hard to position things in Bryce, ...


OK, some pointers in moving stuff into position in Byrce.
Sorry if I'm telling you stuff you already know, but if so, let's hope it can help other people. smile

1; If you have a large, complex scene the components will be slow to respond to movement and jump around, so make sure you have the wireframe view set to 'Default Wireframe'. This option is down at the bottom right of the viewport and is identified by it's little icon that looks like a wireframe cube. Click on that and from the top section of three, make sure that the Default Wireframe has a tick against it.

2; There are several ways to move things around in Bryce and selecting a component and dragging it around with the cursor is the least efficient way. So select the component you wish to move and then in the "Edit" tab on the top row of icons, use the icon that looks like a cube with arrow heads on the stalks that stick out of it.
Now this can be a bit confusing because your camera view doesn't necessarily match with the natural North, South, East and West orientation of this movement icon. One way around this is when you start to build your scene, go to Top View and make sure your camera is at the bottom of the default grid, pointing North. Then your movement and re-sizing tools will a bit more sense. Otherwise hope you get used to sometimes having to move the movement icon arrow one way to make your component move in the opposite direction.
So if you've set up the scene as suggested above, to move your component North you put the cursor on the Movement icon at the point where the lower left arrow stick out (the cube will slowly throb and you should see an 'X' to indicate the X axis is selected), now slowly move the mouse or trackpad to either push the component North or pull it South. If you wish to move it in smaller increments, press the Alt/Option key at the same time. This same process can be used to move a component (or group) East, West and Up and Down but choosing the corresponding arrow head on the movement icon.
You can also move stuff by selecting it using the arrow keys on your keyboard. Again, if you wish move things in smaller increments, you can use the arrow keys in conjunction with the Alt/Option key.
You can also move stuff by clicking the little A in the components sub menu to access the Attributes and type an exact position in the matrix grid.

3; Moving stuff into position is much easier in Top View and once it's close enough, for more exact positioning, zoom in to the area.
Zooming into the area is easy in Top view as Bryce will automatically center the selected component in the viewport. The zoom button is found at the bottom right and is a magnifying glass with a plus (+) symbol. there is also a zoom out button with a Negative (-) symbol and a move around button with a picture of a hand which allows you to scroll around the view. Using these buttons will not affect the view when you go back to Camera or Director view. Zooming in has another advantage as there is less geometry in the viewport, moving items should speed up.

4: Now your item is in position it may not be at the correct height.
If it needs to sit on the floor and is at present floating in the air, just select the item you need to position and in the item's sub menu, click the bottom icon (an arrow pointing downwards). This will drop the item down to either the floor or the surface of any object it first comes into contact with.
If your object is below the ground and it needs lifting up, Bryce will put a little upwards pointing arrow in the sub menu instead of the downward pointing one. Clicking it, will bring your object up to the ground level.
If there is no little arrow in the selected item's sub menu, it is already at ground level.
If you're altering the height of an object and it doesn't need to sit on anything (a plane in the air for instance), use either Left, Right, Front or Back view to see an overview of your scene and using the movement instructions above only selecting the Y axis movement arrow head on the movement icon and remember that pressing the Alt-Option key at the same time will move your object in smaller increments for more exact positioning.

Hope this makes sense (it's early here) and that some of it helps. smile
[ Edited: 24 February 2013 03:12 AM by TheSavage64 ]
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Posted: 24 February 2013 07:12 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 116 ]
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TheSavage64 - 24 February 2013 03:09 AM
BlumBlumShub - 22 February 2013 11:58 AM
... I find it so hard to position things in Bryce, ...


OK, some pointers in moving stuff into position in Byrce.
Sorry if I'm telling you stuff you already know, but if so, let's hope it can help other people. smile

1; If you have a large, complex scene the components will be slow to respond to movement and jump around, so make sure you have the wireframe view set to 'Default Wireframe'. This option is down at the bottom right of the viewport and is identified by it's little icon that looks like a wireframe cube. Click on that and from the top section of three, make sure that the Default Wireframe has a tick against it.

2; There are several ways to move things around in Bryce and selecting a component and dragging it around with the cursor is the least efficient way. So select the component you wish to move and then in the "Edit" tab on the top row of icons, use the icon that looks like a cube with arrow heads on the stalks that stick out of it.
Now this can be a bit confusing because your camera view doesn't necessarily match with the natural North, South, East and West orientation of this movement icon. One way around this is when you start to build your scene, go to Top View and make sure your camera is at the bottom of the default grid, pointing North. Then your movement and re-sizing tools will a bit more sense. Otherwise hope you get used to sometimes having to move the movement icon arrow one way to make your component move in the opposite direction.
So if you've set up the scene as suggested above, to move your component North you put the cursor on the Movement icon at the point where the lower left arrow stick out (the cube will slowly throb and you should see an 'X' to indicate the X axis is selected), now slowly move the mouse or trackpad to either push the component North or pull it South. If you wish to move it in smaller increments, press the Alt/Option key at the same time. This same process can be used to move a component (or group) East, West and Up and Down but choosing the corresponding arrow head on the movement icon.
You can also move stuff by selecting it using the arrow keys on your keyboard. Again, if you wish move things in smaller increments, you can use the arrow keys in conjunction with the Alt/Option key.
You can also move stuff by clicking the little A in the components sub menu to access the Attributes and type an exact position in the matrix grid.

3; Moving stuff into position is much easier in Top View and once it's close enough, for more exact positioning, zoom in to the area.
Zooming into the area is easy in Top view as Bryce will automatically center the selected component in the viewport. The zoom button is found at the bottom right and is a magnifying glass with a plus (+) symbol. there is also a zoom out button with a Negative (-) symbol and a move around button with a picture of a hand which allows you to scroll around the view. Using these buttons will not affect the view when you go back to Camera or Director view. Zooming in has another advantage as there is less geometry in the viewport, moving items should speed up.

4: Now your item is in position it may not be at the correct height.
If it needs to sit on the floor and is at present floating in the air, just select the item you need to position and in the item's sub menu, click the bottom icon (an arrow pointing downwards). This will drop the item down to either the floor or the surface of any object it first comes into contact with.
If your object is below the ground and it needs lifting up, Bryce will put a little upwards pointing arrow in the sub menu instead of the downward pointing one. Clicking it, will bring your object up to the ground level.
If there is no little arrow in the selected item's sub menu, it is already at ground level.
If you're altering the height of an object and it doesn't need to sit on anything (a plane in the air for instance), use either Left, Right, Front or Back view to see an overview of your scene and using the movement instructions above only selecting the Y axis movement arrow head on the movement icon and remember that pressing the Alt-Option key at the same time will move your object in smaller increments for more exact positioning.

Hope this makes sense (it's early here) and that some of it helps. smile


From the top view; North & South will be the Z axis and east-West is the X axis.
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Posted: 24 February 2013 01:31 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 117 ]
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Yes, sorry, I did say it was early when I typed that up... thanks for the correction. smile
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Posted: 24 February 2013 01:40 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 118 ]
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Thanks guys. I picked up a tip from David's tutorial when I started this image again last week and set my camera to face North, so thankfully that eased the transition when I moved items using the transform tool.

The problem I have is that I can't visualise the height or contour of my terrains or other items just by using the wireframe, and it's a pain in both bottom cheeks getting them to look right. If I was trying to position something precisely, I'd have given up by now.

I've used IBL and changed some settings. My render is still rendering two days later! This is annoying me chronically. Anyone that knows me knows that I hate long renders, and to me an hour is too long, let alone three days. But it's looking pretty and it's rendering in the background so I can still use my computer for anything I want to, so it can finish. Provided I don't miss the deadline for the competition. If that happens Bryce gets uninstalled and all install files and content get removed from my hard drive, and anyone mentioning Bryce to me will have their lungs surgically removed with a shovel!

I want to hug Carrara!
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Posted: 24 February 2013 01:42 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 119 ]
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BlumBlumShub - 24 February 2013 01:40 PM
Thanks guys. I picked up a tip from David's tutorial when I started this image again last week and set my camera to face North, so thankfully that eased the transition when I moved items using the transform tool.

The problem I have is that I can't visualise the height or contour of my terrains or other items just by using the wireframe, and it's a pain in both bottom cheeks getting them to look right. If I was trying to position something precisely, I'd have given up by now.

I've used IBL and changed some settings. My render is still rendering two days later! This is annoying me chronically. Anyone that knows me knows that I hate long renders, and to me an hour is too long, let alone three days. But it's looking pretty and it's rendering in the background so I can still use my computer for anything I want to, so it can finish. Provided I don't miss the deadline for the competition. If that happens Bryce gets uninstalled and all install files and content get removed from my hard drive, and anyone mentioning Bryce to me will have their lungs surgically removed with a shovel!

I want to hug Carrara!


Seems a bit extreme.
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Posted: 24 February 2013 02:16 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 120 ]
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I am working on him David, Have threatened him with the trusty club. I keep telling him Bryce is the best thing since Sliced bread. cool smirk
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