Digital Art Zone

Has anyone used Hexagon to create models for 3D printing?

I’m interested in finding out how robust its models are with regard to creating printable objects. I’ve been designing parts for a robot and it’s laborious work so I thought maybe I could get away with shaping using Boolean operations (for holes etc) and triangulate the resulting n-gons with the triangulate tool. For 3D rendering I wouldn’t even try that, but does it matter when using the model for 3D printing?

I’ve yet to make a decision on a printer, so I can’t check the results myself.

Tim

polmear - 15 January 2013 01:33 AM

Has anyone used Hexagon to create models for 3D printing?

I’m interested in finding out how robust its models are with regard to creating printable objects. I’ve been designing parts for a robot and it’s laborious work so I thought maybe I could get away with shaping using Boolean operations (for holes etc) and triangulate the resulting n-gons with the triangulate tool. For 3D rendering I wouldn’t even try that, but does it matter when using the model for 3D printing?

I’ve yet to make a decision on a printer, so I can’t check the results myself.

Tim

What you need is a watertight object with no holes. Booleans are ok from what I read.
Hexagon exports stl files for 3d pronting
Lot’s of good info in this thread over at ZBrush Central.
http://www.zbrushcentral.com/showthread.php?65634-3D-Prints-Cheap-Good-(Free-Print-Game-is-ON-P-3!

Hexagon can work for 3d printing. Using booleans can sometimes result in problems that will prevent further operations in Hexagon, or create “open” object that won’t print. Hexagon only saves ASCII STL, which are much larger than the binary STL version, so they are slower to upload. You can use netfabb (see below) to convert them to binary STL format.

I recommend this free tool:
http://www.netfabb.com/basic.php

Sometime when I can’t do any more boolean operations ie. Hex hangs or crashes, I export the model, fix it in netfabb basic, and reimport it back into Hexagon and continue working.

Hmm.

Yes I was aware that you needed watertight models, which kind of sucks because it makes using DAZ figures so problematic, but that’s another issue.

So far I’ve been managing to work without using booleans by manually stitching drill holes into the model using a mini library of useful geometry scraps. It keeps me in control of the topology.

I’m planning on printing basic shapes then finishing off the fine details with tradiional tools.