Digital Art Zone

Glad you popped in chohole - a chance to get a very informed opinion from a pro:)

I’ve never needed to texture a shirt - I’m more into mechanical type modelling - but take for instance the plaid texture that tdrd wants to do.  My gut feel is that I agree that the first one produced by mjc1016 is the one to go with.  i would be inclined to stitch it together, then overlay the back and front so that the texture pattern would line up at the sides and not produce an ugly seam.

What approach would you take to get the plaid pattern to line up?

Well if you make a shirt for real, the parts that he has on his telmplat is how you would cut it out, so often Plaid doesn’t match up on the semas.  Me though I would play around with it while texturing, to try to get at least a horizontal match.  Ie I would make a layer with a square swatch of the fabric, and then do test renders to see how the UV grid lines are matching up.

chohole - 18 November 2012 02:10 PM

Well if you make a shirt for real, the parts that he has on his telmplat is how you would cut it out, so often Plaid doesn’t match up on the semas.  Me though I would play around with it while texturing, to try to get at least a horizontal match.  Ie I would make a layer with a square swatch of the fabric, and then do test renders to see how the UV grid lines are matching up.

This is using a Fabricator preset.

It isn’t too bad, and the big mismatch across the front is that the mesh itself actually dips that way.  In addition to the UV being slightly skewed…The combination makes it a bit more ‘off’ than it should be…

With a little work on the UV it can be made to look pretty good.

Thanks for the info, chohole:)

Sorry not been back in touch - spent Sunday night in hospital with angina…
I would like to understand how to create a map like above and then apply a texture to it.
Do you have to physically paint over the texture map or overlay it somehow?

Thanks

tdrd - 19 November 2012 10:04 PM

Do you have to physically paint over the texture map or overlay it somehow?

Yes, exactly.

Once you have the UV map laid out to your liking, each poly on the UV texture map corresponds to a specific face on the 3D mesh.

A UV map is just the skin of a 3D model laid out flat.

Whatever you “paint” on that 2D area will be wrapped around the 3D mesh when you render it; each poly on the UV being placed on its corresponding poly on the mesh.

In either, load a duplicate of your UV template, create a layer(s) and paint your texture or place your seamless photo on the layer(s).  That’s the theory, I’m useless at it. 

EDIT:  but read…..afreaginname…..  Which he summarised eloquently above.afreaginname

OK so i’ve downloaded blender but it’s a devil to get anything working.

I’ve loaded the object in (at last) but cannot find any means of splitting eams or creating UV meshes.

Are you sure this is the right software - blender.org???

It’s not user friendly to the newcomer is it - i’ve got nowhere.

The manual says use Mesh >unwrap but it does not tell you where to find these options.
It’s been written by someone who knows what they are doing for people who already know the interface…..

I’m beginning to wonder if this hobby is worth all the messing about…

I’ve had to learn Hexagon, Bryce, Studio and now the principles of UV Mapping and blender.

It’s a little too much for me to absorb.

No, Blender isn’t exactly ‘user friendly’...at least until you get used to it (and it’s taken me several years to really get to that point).

But…here’s a quick run through.

When you first open Blender, it should load with a cube in the middle and if you look down at the bottom, there should be a little box saying Object.  If you hit the ‘A’ key, that should select/deselect All..now if you click on the box, ith will b a drop-down menu.  One of the items is Edit…click it.  You are now in Edit mode.  The options along the bottom have changed and so should the list of things on the left hand side…

In the middle of the various icons on the bottom, there is a series of three…the first should show a ‘point’ in a brighter color, the second a line and the third, a square.  Select the line…that’s for ‘Edges’.

Now on the cube if you place your cursor along an edge and right click on it, you will select that edge.

Then, when you’ve selected the edge, look over on the left, you may need to scroll through but there will be a box, “Mark Seam”...click it.  The edge will now be bright red.  After you’ve marked that one, go ahead and select several more edges…thinking about how you would like the object to look when cut along those seams.

After you’ve selected and marked your seams, hit the A key (you may need to do it twice…but when everything is orange, you are set…).  Then one the left, hit “Unwrap”...it’s right above “Mark Seam”.  You’ll be presented with several options (choose Unwrap as that’s the automatic one). 

Now, on the very bottom should be another pane…and a little box on the very far left…click on it…a drop down (well, in this case drop up?) will appear…choose the “UV/Image editor”.  This will turn that bottom pane into the editor window…you’ll need to drag the separator bar up some or find a magnifying glass….

@mjc1016: Thank you very much for the above - most greatfully appreciated.
I know this isnot a blender group but your tips above will be of huge benefit not only to I but others venturing into this minefield.

Thank you again very much.

Terry

OK - i’ve been struggling with Blender but have come across an idea…
Is it possible to split the shirt into unfolded sections in Hexagon without actually disassociating the object seams?
Like in Blender - you don’t actually cut the material.
The problem I am having in blender is rotating the object in the screen. There does not seem to be a very good live rotate within the screen so it’s very difficult collecting all the correct points to make the seam - and I miss the loop feature in Hexagon.
I’ve tried having the shirt body as a shading domain and applying material to that but it’s not very good that way as the material stretches over the wide points - a checkered pattern loses it’s uniformity.
I’m pleased with the level of support with blender but it’s too much for me to take in another piece of software at the moment.

I’m having to brush up on my programming (VB.NET/ ASP.NET / PHP / Javascript) and web development (Dreamweaver / CSS)languages at the moment whilst seeking work and learning Daz Studio / Bryce / Hexagon and then uvmapping is all getting a bit too much for me to handle.  I’d love to really get into the CG modelling but the materials are just going one step too far if I have to use blender.

So to simplify - is it possible to section clothing up into areas for uv mapping within hexagon itself rather than use another third party software - even if it’s not as good or a little more long winded (because Blender is not easy to use or manipulate by any means).

Thank you everyone for the feedback
Terry

Despair not - Blender is…well, its Blender:)

Hexagon is fully capable of doing what you want - although it has no idea of proportions and you will probably have to eyeball scale some parts to get the proportions correct.  As for rotating and scaling, etc., once the unwrap is done and validated, you use the normal modelling tools to select and manipulate the UV’s, just as if it was a mesh.

In this very quick and nasty example, I marked seams along the sides and around the arms, then from both sides of the neck to the seam around the arms - see the blue lines.  Then I marked pins - see the green dots (ignore the centre green dot - that is not a pin, but the centre of the bounding box.)

The process is very simple - with the mesh selected, go to the UV & Paint tab, select the head icon.  Mark the seams by selecting edges.  In the properties panel, make sure “Seams” is showing and hit the + sign.  Now mark the pins, make sure “Pins” is showing and hit the + sign.

Hit validate, then you can select faces, edges or verts on the UV grid and rotate, resize as needed.

Always better to do the UV mapping after the modelling is done and before smoothing - this makes it easier to identify and select edges.  Once you are happy you can then add smoothing.

@Roygee: Thanks for that - i’ll give it a try - much appreciated.
Terry

I understand the seams - not the pins… what are they?

Hello tdrd (Terry)...

I am not going to contribute with details, but instead refer you to this thread with all the details (and visuals) to help you understand UV mapping better:

http://www.daz3d.com/forums/viewthread/984/

There are already a lot of helpers in this thread who have given you valuable advice.  I think you just need to see some differences explained to help saturate everything, and help you further in your mapping endeavor.

Pay attention to the examples I give regarding bad mapping (UV Mapper default “planar” mapping), and opposing “good” mapping with custom seam lines and “flattening” (in UVLayout, Roadkill, and Blender).

If, however, you are hellbent in continuing to map in Hexagon, I recommend you view the UV mapping tutorials for Hexagon over at Geek At Play Studios here:

http://www.geekatplay.com/hexagontutorials/begining.php

This will help you immensely, so you don’t have to ask about every little detail when mapping in Hex.