Show Us Your Iray Renders

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Comments

  • Dumor3DDumor3D Posts: 1,316
    edited December 1969

    MDO2010 said:
    OK, here's my very first Iray attempt. I will not go into my many, many hours of frustration and false starts, since I think I am kind of getting a handle on it now.

    This one is way underlit and I didn't let it finish but I wanted to post a "before." I made a bunch of material, light and toning adjustments after this render and I'll play tomorrow to see if I did it right; it's 1:30AM here now and I downloaded the BETA around 5:00PM, so I think that's enough for one day. :)

    The image on the left is the raw Iray render, stopped at 90% (1h 24m in) because I came back to my computer and saw all the things I needed to fix. On the left is the same image with a little quick adjustment in Photoshop.

    Mark

    Good work! You have a lot of nice new features used in there. Don't forget if your scene is just overall too dark, you can use the camera settings under Render Settings, to set ISO, shutter, film speed or whatever to make a quick overall scene adjustment. I see metals, emitters and did you use architectural for the outdoor lights? It looks very much like that effect?

  • Dumor3DDumor3D Posts: 1,316
    edited December 1969

    Thought I'd test my promo from Wave Sandals. As expected, metal didn't work as 3DL is a totally different technique. It only took a few minutes though to apply Iray metals and adjust the colors a bit to get close to the original image. This is V6HD. I set the base SubD to 3 and the render SubD to 4. Used a car paint on the nails. Render time was about 32 minutes on my laptop. One mesh light and dome with intensity set down to .2. I am really happy with the default bump and such on the shoes. I didn't touch that.

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  • PendraiaPendraia Posts: 2,922
    edited December 1969

    Some early renders using iRay...


    Can anyone advise what the white under the rock on the Lost Garden render might be?

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  • JimbowJimbow Posts: 556
    edited December 1969

    MDO2010 said:
    OK, here's my very first Iray attempt. I will not go into my many, many hours of frustration and false starts, since I think I am kind of getting a handle on it now.

    This one is way underlit and I didn't let it finish but I wanted to post a "before." I made a bunch of material, light and toning adjustments after this render and I'll play tomorrow to see if I did it right; it's 1:30AM here now and I downloaded the BETA around 5:00PM, so I think that's enough for one day. :)

    The image on the left is the raw Iray render, stopped at 90% (1h 24m in) because I came back to my computer and saw all the things I needed to fix. On the left is the same image with a little quick adjustment in Photoshop.

    Mark

    Start by going to render settings > Tonemapping and just change the exposure first.

  • MusicplayerMusicplayer Posts: 484
    edited March 2015

    This is my first published render using Iray. The model is Teen Danny with Jayce skin texture and eyes, Oliver hair, REAL Hairy, and Funky Undies.

    Lighting is a 3 point Light rig made by Razor 42 and is available in the General freepozitory. http://www.daz3d.com/forums/discussion/53797/

    Many thanks to Razor 42, the Light and Render Presets are extremely useful, and very much appreciated.

    This scene took 292 iterations, and 3222.104s (Approx 54 minutes) to render on an old 2 core Mac with 12 Gb memory.


    Having played with iray in Daz Studio for a few days I like the results, and looking at the amazing renders in this thread, I will need to build my new computer and get better render times.
    Having used Luxrender, the one thing I miss is that light levels cannot be altered in Iray whilst the render is progressing. Also if for some reason my computer crashed there is no render file to return to and continue the render. Maybe, there will be something similar in the final version of DAZ Studio 4.8 Pro.

    Many thanks to DAZ, I do believe this is going to be a game changer for photorealistic renders within DAZ Studio. Lots to look forward to.

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    Post edited by Musicplayer on
  • MDO2010MDO2010 Posts: 1,299
    edited December 1969

    Dumor3D said:
    MDO2010 said:
    OK, here's my very first Iray attempt. I will not go into my many, many hours of frustration and false starts, since I think I am kind of getting a handle on it now.

    This one is way underlit and I didn't let it finish but I wanted to post a "before." I made a bunch of material, light and toning adjustments after this render and I'll play tomorrow to see if I did it right; it's 1:30AM here now and I downloaded the BETA around 5:00PM, so I think that's enough for one day. :)

    The image on the left is the raw Iray render, stopped at 90% (1h 24m in) because I came back to my computer and saw all the things I needed to fix. On the left is the same image with a little quick adjustment in Photoshop.

    Mark

    Good work! You have a lot of nice new features used in there. Don't forget if your scene is just overall too dark, you can use the camera settings under Render Settings, to set ISO, shutter, film speed or whatever to make a quick overall scene adjustment. I see metals, emitters and did you use architectural for the outdoor lights? It looks very much like that effect?

    Thank you. :)

    Yes, I did use the architectural setting. I wasn't entirely sure what it does but from my vague understanding I thought it might help. I set the ISO to 800 already, so I think I just have it under lit.

    I've never used an unbiased render engine before and all the terminology is really new. I have no instinctive understanding of how bright 1,000 or 5,000 or 20,000 lumens is and the numbers I found on Wikipedia for real life lights don't seem to translate accurately (99% sure that's noob-error on my part). The main light on the character is a 1m x 1m plane about 2m from the character with an emission shader set to a temperature of 5,000 (which if I am understanding correctly, should be just slightly on the warm side of neutral) and 25,000 lumens. According to what I've read so far, that should be too much light, but it isn't.

    I'll figure it out, I think I just got too ambitious for my first try.. I have literally set aside my whole weekend to play with Iray and I'm going to start with a simpler scene so I can do quicker renders and see what my adjustments are doing.

    Mark

  • Dumor3DDumor3D Posts: 1,316
    edited December 1969

    MDO2010 said:
    Dumor3D said:
    MDO2010 said:
    OK, here's my very first Iray attempt. I will not go into my many, many hours of frustration and false starts, since I think I am kind of getting a handle on it now.

    This one is way underlit and I didn't let it finish but I wanted to post a "before." I made a bunch of material, light and toning adjustments after this render and I'll play tomorrow to see if I did it right; it's 1:30AM here now and I downloaded the BETA around 5:00PM, so I think that's enough for one day. :)

    The image on the left is the raw Iray render, stopped at 90% (1h 24m in) because I came back to my computer and saw all the things I needed to fix. On the left is the same image with a little quick adjustment in Photoshop.

    Mark

    Good work! You have a lot of nice new features used in there. Don't forget if your scene is just overall too dark, you can use the camera settings under Render Settings, to set ISO, shutter, film speed or whatever to make a quick overall scene adjustment. I see metals, emitters and did you use architectural for the outdoor lights? It looks very much like that effect?

    Thank you. :)

    Yes, I did use the architectural setting. I wasn't entirely sure what it does but from my vague understanding I thought it might help. I set the ISO to 800 already, so I think I just have it under lit.

    I've never used an unbiased render engine before and all the terminology is really new. I have no instinctive understanding of how bright 1,000 or 5,000 or 20,000 lumens is and the numbers I found on Wikipedia for real life lights don't seem to translate accurately (99% sure that's noob-error on my part). The main light on the character is a 1m x 1m plane about 2m from the character with an emission shader set to a temperature of 5,000 (which if I am understanding correctly, should be just slightly on the warm side of neutral) and 25,000 lumens. According to what I've read so far, that should be too much light, but it isn't.

    I'll figure it out, I think I just got too ambitious for my first try.. I have literally set aside my whole weekend to play with Iray and I'm going to start with a simpler scene so I can do quicker renders and see what my adjustments are doing.

    Mark

    I think the mesh lights default to cd/m^2 while Studio works in CMs. If you are actually doing the math on lighting, you might want to change it to cd/cm^2. It knocks 2 0s off. I'm finding you just need to add a lot of zeros until you finally blask the scene and then start backing down slowly.

    Yes, I though I was seeing some ambient light coming in through the windows, which is why I asked about architectural. It does add a fair amount of time to the rendering, so you might want to turn it off during test renders.

    To me, the lighting in that scene looks pretty darned good as far as 'balance' goes. That's why I suggested fiddling with the camera settings. F-stop, shutter speed, ISO... each can gain you some more light. I'm finding that bright scenes render much faster than dark scenes. Apparently Iray works really hard in the shadow areas to pull out some detail and finishes quickly on well lit areas. That makes sense to me. But it does mean if I accidentally under light something, I can expect a longer render time. And, darker scenes, which I like to do a lot are going to take longer than the bright daylight outdoor scenes.

  • HoleHole Posts: 110
    edited December 1969

    Pimping my Rocket Ride....


    ...Iray mat tests for a coming "soon" product.

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  • Richard HaseltineRichard Haseltine Posts: 39,523
    edited December 1969

    Dumor3D said:
    I think the mesh lights default to cd/m^2 while Studio works in CMs. If you are actually doing the math on lighting, you might want to change it to cd/cm^2. It knocks 2 0s off. I'm finding you just need to add a lot of zeros until you finally blask the scene and then start backing down slowly.

    Four zeroes - remember these are squares so you have 100*100 cm^2 to the m^2, the conversion factor is therefore 1/10,000.

  • DigiDotzDigiDotz Posts: 340
    edited December 1969

    ,,messing with emission

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  • Dumor3DDumor3D Posts: 1,316
    edited December 1969

    Dumor3D said:
    I think the mesh lights default to cd/m^2 while Studio works in CMs. If you are actually doing the math on lighting, you might want to change it to cd/cm^2. It knocks 2 0s off. I'm finding you just need to add a lot of zeros until you finally blask the scene and then start backing down slowly.

    Four zeroes - remember these are squares so you have 100*100 cm^2 to the m^2, the conversion factor is therefore 1/10,000.

    OH crap Richard! You are right! Doh... This dang American had a stoopid moment of 10 MMs in a CM and 10 CMs in a M. LOL. That would be a very short meter! I work in MM's a lot, but rarely Meters. Cabinetry work. You don't work in yards or feet either... just inches. ;)

    It should be the demand of the world that we all switch to metric! I for one would love metric time. LOL... just kidding... but it does turn out that a second is very close to the same with 10 hours a day, 100 minutes per hour and 100 seconds per minute. :) I would get along much better working only 5 hours a day instead of 12. ROTFL!

  • glaseyeglaseye Posts: 807
    edited December 1969

    Not my 1st Iray render, but the 1st I think that is good enough for posting..... rendered to about 3000 samples (iterations?)..Certainly not photoreal, that would aquire more adjustments (materials etc) and still a little noise in the background.
    One mesh light used - the ringlight from InaneGlory's Photo Studio 3, with the arealight settings replaced by Iray's emissive settings

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  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 11,647
    edited March 2015

    Revisiting my 'furry dragon' thing. I'm finding about 200k hairs is about all my machine can currently handle as an object file, so it's more of a fuzz than a true coat of fur.

    A proper trans map would make a big difference on making the translucency work properly, but... it'll do for now.

    It took me a while to find the right way to backlight the scene. Eventually I just added emission to the entire ceiling directly, since none of it is in frame anyway. I like the effect.

    Everything is stock. The only shader adjustment is converting the dragon to Iray, and making all the fleshy bits a little translucent (I think I settled on Scatter and .1 trans weight)

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  • ZarconDeeGrissomZarconDeeGrissom Posts: 5,044
    edited March 2015

    Dumor3D said:
    Dumor3D said:
    I think the mesh lights default to cd/m^2 while Studio works in CMs. If you are actually doing the math on lighting, you might want to change it to cd/cm^2. It knocks 2 0s off. I'm finding you just need to add a lot of zeros until you finally blask the scene and then start backing down slowly.

    Four zeroes - remember these are squares so you have 100*100 cm^2 to the m^2, the conversion factor is therefore 1/10,000.

    OH crap Richard! You are right! Doh... This dang American had a stoopid moment of 10 MMs in a CM and 10 CMs in a M. LOL. That would be a very short meter! I work in MM's a lot, but rarely Meters. Cabinetry work. You don't work in yards or feet either... just inches. ;)

    It should be the demand of the world that we all switch to metric! I for one would love metric time. LOL... just kidding... but it does turn out that a second is very close to the same with 10 hours a day, 100 minutes per hour and 100 seconds per minute. :) I would get along much better working only 5 hours a day instead of 12. ROTFL!it's all good, I've been asking similar stupid questions. 100watts, how bright is that, lol. Now if that is that much light for every square meter of a surface, 1 meter high and 12 meters wide, WOW. lol

    It's all good, just add zeros. lol.

    Incandescent to Lumans
    40Watt 450Lumens
    60Watt 800Lumens
    75Watt 1100Lumens
    100Watt 1600Lumens
    150Watt 2400Lumens
    200Watt 3100Lumens
    300Watt 4000Lumens

    about 2,400 Lumens - single 150 watt halogen work-light bilb.
    about 5,950 Lumens - single 300 watt halogen work-light bilb.
    9k to 11k lumens - single 500 watt halogen work-light bilb.

    4k to 1million lumens - Street lamps are here (somewhere)

    WW2 Navy searchlight (1000 Watt Xenon Manual Control Searchlight)
    80,000,000 (80 million Lumens)
    beam service distance approximately 5 miles

    ww2 GE 60-inch 15kW carbon-Arc Searchlight
    800,000,000 (800 million Lumens)
    Effective Beam Length: 5.6 miles
    Effective Beam Visibility: 28 to 35 miles

    Post edited by ZarconDeeGrissom on
  • Dumor3DDumor3D Posts: 1,316
    edited December 1969

    Playing around with my candy dish. :)

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  • grinch2901grinch2901 Posts: 791
    edited December 1969

    Wanted to see if I could make a "clay render" style using iRay. Close enough I think.

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  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,161
    edited December 1969

    I see thee is confusion of what value the Luminance units are so this might help http://www.daz3d.com/forums/discussion/53695/P255/#781590. The reason I think it is done this way is because Wattage isn't a standard of light output as you can have a low wattage halogen that is brighter than a high wattage GLS light bulb (old style tungsten filament) or an LED which has a very high cd/m2 output. But I am only guessing. :)

  • ZarconDeeGrissomZarconDeeGrissom Posts: 5,044
    edited March 2015

    Szark said:
    I see thee is confusion of what value the Luminance units are so this might help http://www.daz3d.com/forums/discussion/53695/P255/#781590. The reason I think it is done this way is because Wattage isn't a standard of light output as you can have a low wattage halogen that is brighter than a high wattage GLS light bulb (old style tungsten filament) or an LED which has a very high cd/m2 output. But I am only guessing. :)
    Thing is, the numbers meant nothing to me, as I had no real world experience of how bright a 50,000 lumen light actually was, lol. Hence my little chart I was digging up.

    Retired NAVY, so I know how bright (and hot) the searchlights are. That and I'm old enough to remember how bright a 100watt bulb was inside (not outside), lol. To finish it tho, The lumens of a 500watt halogen work-light??? hmmm.
    (GE Lighting 97674 500-Watt 11000-Lumen Specialty T2.5 Halogen Light Bulb, still looking)
    500-Watt Halogen T3 Double Ended 4.7 in, 9,500 lumens.

    Post edited by ZarconDeeGrissom on
  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 11,647
    edited December 1969

    Amusingly, after having to ramp up exposure on so many of my images, I'm now working on a sun-lit scene and having to drop ISO to like 25 to keep it from being overexposed. Hah.

  • ZarconDeeGrissomZarconDeeGrissom Posts: 5,044
    edited March 2015

    Amusingly, after having to ramp up exposure on so many of my images, I'm now working on a sun-lit scene and having to drop ISO to like 25 to keep it from being overexposed. Hah.
    agreed. hence my question of how much is still being worked on with the beta.

    yes, the sun is much brighter outside, then most indoor scenes. The shutter speed, not just the Film ISO is usually adjusted by photographers accordingly.
    (EDIT)
    That was over twenty years ago, and I cant remember exactly what it was for ISO400, tho I do remember trying not to jar the tripod taking multiple-second exposes of the moon at night (1/0.25) to I think something like 1/200(?) in the school at the time. Outside was more like 1/800 I think. Again, over twenty years ago.

    Post edited by ZarconDeeGrissom on
  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,161
    edited December 1969

    Szark said:
    I see thee is confusion of what value the Luminance units are so this might help http://www.daz3d.com/forums/discussion/53695/P255/#781590. The reason I think it is done this way is because Wattage isn't a standard of light output as you can have a low wattage halogen that is brighter than a high wattage GLS light bulb (old style tungsten filament) or an LED which has a very high cd/m2 output. But I am only guessing. :)
    Thing is, the numbers meant nothing to me, as I had no real world experience of how bright a 50,000 lumen light actually was, lol. Hence my little chart I was digging up.

    Retired NAVY, so I know how bright (and hot) the searchlights are. That and I'm old enough to remember how bright a 100watt bulb was inside (not outside), lol. To finish it tho, The lumens of a 500watt halogen work-light??? hmmm.And I would suspect a lot more are in the same boat. But that is the thing when dealing with these engines and the geeks that create them. They don't think in real world terms of how many hobbyists would use them and understand light, lumens, lux and candlepower. I have a small understanding as I used to sell all sorts of lighting solutions. It would ne nice if these engines came with some basic real world light presets. Like your example of a 500W halogen etc.

    Oh then on top of this we have the Inverse Sq law of light fall off...really does my old brain in these days.

  • SzarkSzark Posts: 10,161
    edited December 1969

    Amusingly, after having to ramp up exposure on so many of my images, I'm now working on a sun-lit scene and having to drop ISO to like 25 to keep it from being overexposed. Hah.
    agreed. hence my question of how much is still being worked on with the beta.

    yes, the sun is much brighter outside, then most indoor scenes. The shutter speed, not just the Film ISO is usually adjusted by photographers accordingly.materials have a huge part to play too when dealing with these engines.

  • Herald of FireHerald of Fire Posts: 3,450
    edited March 2015

    Wanted to see how a darker skinned figure would look using the default Iray option for G2F. Had a bit of 'fun' trying to get the hair black as it wanted to be a very light grey when I first started rendering. I had to reduce the diffuse colour to a very dull grey to compensate.

    It was also a good opportunity to try out some other shaders. Used velvet on the shirt, tweaked to use the texture maps which came with the outfit, and silk on the skirt. Still needs some tweaking to find a good balance, but I'm slowly getting the hang of this.

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  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 11,647
    edited March 2015

    Simple Iray still life. I modeled the glass, and the glass uses an Iray shader. The water is also converted to Iray water. Otherwise I haven't touched any of the default shaders for the stock items I used.

    I have a warm nostalgia for 50 cl glasses... my mother has been drinking iced tea out of them since I was a child, and now we have a bunch, too.
    (Going to try to render a 50 cl glass with iced tea and ice later)

    I'm finding the easiest way to get rid of graininess is render at 2x size and then reduce it 50% in post.

    Amusingly, the light levels are so high I really had to cut down exposure:
    The sun intensity was dropped to 50%, environmental intensity to .2.
    Tone:
    Exposure: 6
    Shutter speed: 1, F/Stop: 16, Film ISO: 25

    (Just for the heck of it I kept F/Stop consistent between camera and renderer settings and tried to use realistic values)

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  • ZarconDeeGrissomZarconDeeGrissom Posts: 5,044
    edited March 2015

    Wanted to see how a darker skinned figure would look under using the default Iray option for G2F. Had a bit of 'fun' trying to get the hair black as it wanted to be a very light grey when I first started rendering. I had to reduce the diffuse colour to a very dull grey to compensate.

    It was also a good opportunity to try out some other shaders. Used velvet on the shirt, tweaked to use the texture maps which came with the outfit, and silk on the skirt. Still needs some tweaking to find a good balance, but I'm slowly getting the hang of this.

    Funny, I was just looking at this "Crush Blacks" dial in the render tab. Looks like that should be at 0.0 not 0.2 (puts a 'Knee' on the dark end of the gamma curve in the render above 0.0)
    http://docs.daz3d.com/doku.php/public/software/dazstudio/4/referenceguide/interface/panes/render_settings/engine/nvidia_iray/tone_mapping/start
    (EDIT)
    Yes I did it twice, I didn't believe the difference it made. three 500watt Halogens (10,000 lumens each), and at ISO400, F/Stop 8, Shutter 1/128.
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  • Oso3DOso3D Posts: 11,647
    edited December 1969

    I'll note that I was very impressed that I didn't need to touch the cactus' shaders at ALL to get cool effects. Maybe it could use a few tweaks, but... still looks very cool, I think.

  • FirstBastionFirstBastion Posts: 3,996
    edited December 1969

    another test. lit the entire scene with emitters

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  • MusicplayerMusicplayer Posts: 484
    edited March 2015

    Second attempt with model Danny,

    I got more adventurous and :

    Applied a gold Iray shader to the dog tags and played a little with the shiny metal adjustment.
    Used the GM2 Iray skin shader that was provided with DAZ 4.8 Pro Beta.
    I used the same 3 point light set-up as provided free by Razor 42, but turned one of the photometric spotlights into the Sun.

    Environment Mode was set to Sun-Sky Only and the render took 247 iterations, in 2477.167s (approx 41 minutes)

    This is still a work in progress, but thanks to everyone posting in the various Iray threads that have sprung up, a wealth of knowledge and experience is making a great reference source.

    Cheers :-)

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  • thd777thd777 Posts: 593
    edited March 2015

    Another lighting and material experiment. This I used only emitter as lights. Render time ~15 minutes each using CPU plus 2 GPU.
    Ciao
    TD

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  • RavnheartRavnheart Posts: 89
    edited December 1969

    Playing with Iray. All lights are emitters. Took a bit to figure out the emitting lights.

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This discussion has been closed.